My Guide to AveSeena

AveSeena, a brand formulated by Dr. Ebru Karpuzoglu (MSc. PhD, Molecular Medicine & Immunology) who has spent 20+ years researching skin and the immune system. Her skincare philosophy is scientifically rooted in the healthful balance between skin, its microbiome and immune system. I also adore the brand name AveSeena, where “Ave” is the word used by Romans as a salutation that means “be well” – representing the energetic positivity for your life and health through new found empowerment- mind, body, and spirit. While “Seena” comes from the Rumi philosophy “of / from the heart where is the center of emotions, well-being and goodwill” – representing the pure and powerful touch of each formula. My association and experience with this brand started in 2017, and since they’ve come a long way with products and formulations. Lets explore each of them:

Honeyactive Beauty Mask, the OG from AveSeena for me since 2017. I did a post that year detailing the

comparison with The Honey Mud. Fast forward to 2021, with some changes to the formulation (change in some oils, extracts and preservative system), I can still gleefully report it is still stellar and performs like a champ! Most distinct change I noticed, was in its texture and consistency.
However the heart of formulation still consists of enzyme rich Honey, purifying clays, moisturising and healing plant oils and botanical extracts.
2017 texture and consistency I documented was: Dense, firm, very mildly grainy for very very mild exfoliation
2021 texture and consistency experienced: Dense, firm but quite sticky (in pure honey sense and has proven wonderful for Honey Tapping and no graininess at all. I believe this is directly attributed to the quality of honey itself. The scent and overall experience remains just as indulgent.

Decadent, non drying, instantly soothing and calming my skin. I leave it on…well till I’m done with a deep clean of the house, or from 5.30am (me time) to 7.30am just about when chaos wakes and unfolds in the household. I could see this mask working for just about any skin type.

Gentle Gardenia Anti-Pollution Gel Cleanser

A gentle foaming cleanser, that cleanses and removes light makeup of the day. I don’t wear full coverage makeup, and I remove eye and lip with a separate oil or balm cleanser so this works to remove the rest. It does feel refreshing after, no tightness or stretchy-ness after cleanse. Used as morning or evening second cleanse. I don’t use a washcloth with this, unnecessary with a foaming cleanser. Transparent runny gel consistency, add few drops of water to foam. The foam itself isn’t a lot, but feels soft and gentle (not detergent like).
The aroma needs to be talked about, as for cleansing without aroma is a lack lustre cleansing experience for me. The cornerstone aroma of AveSeena is Gardenia, blended with extracts of Rose, Lavender, Geranium, Bee balm, Horsetail, Dandelion, Gotu Kola, Reishi Mushroom, Amethyst extract and Beeswax. Smells wonderful floral enveloped in sweetness. The formulation on paper is fantastic, but performance exceeds what you see on paper. As I recently explained, that foaming cleansers weren’t my jam but with such advanced and elegant formulations it has contributed to my openness (deep down still a balm whore😂)

Supreme Recontour Eye Concentrate
I’m someone who likes the idea of using an eye product and sees value, however I’ve been very inconsistent over the years. I like some products and keep going back to those. Sometimes its packaging or feel on the skin or resulting milia for my eye area. Now all that said, I’m surprised to find myself actively reaching to apply this. It’s weird for me. Perhaps it’s the convenience of pump bottle, perhaps its the super light consistency and absorbs right away, and also zero milia or puffiness each morning. Plus more so, I’ve noticed it has my eye area skin firmer and taut (doesn’t feel flabby so improved elasticity). As for fine lines, too soon to tell, and dark circles well nothing will ever help me. Partly genetic and partly under eye pigmentation so I just invest in a good under eye corrector and concealer.

Consistency and texture, is a gel and absorbs beautifully in skin. One and half pump is what I use around my eyes, lids, between brows and stretch is all the way out to crows feet area.
It does have a mild aroma, however it has not irritated my skin around eyes at all. Formulation wise, its enriched with Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Peptide, Gotu Kola, Peptides, Vitamin K…this product I believe is the underdog of the collection.

Micro Algae Immun-B3 Serum
The formulation feels supercharged but so replenishing and restoring to the skin barrier. A little goes a long way with this gem.
The consistency and texture is very light gel and absorbs instantly in skin. No residue on skin at all, however skin feels taut (thanks to addition of Pullulan). I use about 2-3 pumps all over face and neck, and apply thin layer all over. It works well with other products from AveSeena line or not. No pilling experienced (my pet peeve).
Some superstars in the formulation include; Brighteners like Niacinamide, Bearberry, Licorice, botanical extracts of Uva Ursi extarct, Pullulan, Micro Algae extract, Reishi Mushroom, Lemon Balm extract, Schizandra berry extract, Ginseng, Fennel, Anise, Horseradish, Willow Bark, Lemon Balm.
Ultimately what this serum has consistently delivered for me, is strong, firm, resilient barrier function. You know I love using exfoliating acids regularly, and paired in a routine, the results are excellent. But also buffering with this has been a life/skin saver in some instances. It has truly protected my barrier and protected from any potential damage. Every morning, I’ve noticed my skin appears consistently healthier, stable and glowing. What more could I ask for🤷🏽‍♀️

To sum up the next product, Ageless Perfection Cream is rich formulation but light in feel, think of chocolate mousse, rich and decadent but light and fluffy. This is it.

On paper this formulation is ultra-concentrated cream and brand claims it immerses skin in soothing hydration to transcend multiple signs of inflammaging and time. Well here’s what I can say, absorbs beautifully and leaves a gorgeous velvet finish on skin. Consistently delivered hydrated, plump skin. I’d say don’t be fooled by its light whippy mousse like consistency. Because it’s nourishment performance is exceptional. The formulation is packed with Niacinamide, Globe Daisy culture extract, Sodium PCA, Snow mushroom, Arnica, Peptide complex, Oregon grape, Diamond Powder, Licorice extract, Arnica with Caesalpinia Spinosa while nourishment with oils like Cocoa, Coconut, Avocado, Jojoba, Squalane, Grape seed, Camellia, Rosehip, Evening Primrose, Borage, Tamanu, Macadamia, & Linseed. Finally sensory treats served with Rose geranium, Chamomile, Calendula, Vitamins C, B5 and E.

Green Caviar Facial Oil Elixir is in the light oil but supercharged oil league. So light (thanks to Squalane and Green Caviar Oil), smells like garden of Gardenia and hello glowing skin!!

This oil discovery is an absolute Gem, which exhilarates me with its consistency, aroma & performance. It ticks all boxes for me. Formulated in a primary base of Squalane and Camellia seed oil, and enriched with peptide Matrixyl 3000™, Blue Tansy, Gardenia, Tiare, Bakuchiol and extracts such as Elder flower, Calendula, Chamomile, Rose, Willow Bark, Red Clover.
With the lightest tinge of mint green from Green Caviar oil, this smells of a garden of white tropical florals (Gardenia and Tiare). Refreshing yet relaxing and you can’t stop inhaling this. I use 4-5-6 drops depending if I use standalone or mixing in moisturizer. I’ve noticed it has helped with minor inflammation I experienced, but also properly moisturized my skin and is an absolutely delight to the senses. Some nights I’ve used it with nothing in my routine except cleanse, acid and oil, skin was happy, healthy & glowing.

Overall, this brand delivers some well articulated and formulated products. The finishes are sophisticated and results speak volumes. For me the eye contour concentrate along with mask and oil are must try’s.

*Brand Gifted

HHW.com

xx

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MV Skin Therapy Native Power Serum

If you’ve followed my routines for a while, you’ll know I’ve adored MV Skin Therapy (formerly known as MV Organics) for the longest time. Prime love for Rose Plus Booster, followed by their 9 Oil Radiance Tonic, Gentle Cream Cleanser, Hand Rescue and others. Up until recently they didn’t have any serum offering. However now the only serum offering in MV Skin Therapy range boasts to be a skin quenching nectar, antioxidant powerhouse which harnesses phytoactives found within Australian Natives (Australian Sandalwood, Kakadu Plum, Davidson Plum, Quandong/wild peach). These indigenous plants are known to survive in harsh environment and work synergistically to deliver the most universally versatile serum. What I absolutely adore and respect is that Australian Native Extracts have been wild harvested and ethically sourced in partnership with local indigenous communities. It’s a special formulation and homage to the traditional medicine practiced by our First Nations people.

So diving right into the claims:
Its a skin drink ✅
Illuminate and impart a living glow ✅
Yes and yes, delivers on both fronts!

Packaging – Frosted glass bottle, with white labeling. White labels are so clean and serene in appearance and lovely to look at especially in a sea of miron glass packaging world. Its truly refreshing.

Texture & Consistency – Light, instantly absorbing gel.

Scent – To say smells like orange is a disservice and will rob you of fully understanding and appreciating it. So this is what I think….A juicy ripe in season mandarin, when you sit with it and peel at first, that instant burst of juice squirting on your face, while the oil from the skin just bursts and fills air with that orangey scent…this is what it smells like.

Application – MV recommends using half a pump while skin is damp as Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is water loving molecule and seeks water like a hungry scavenger. When applied to damp skin, it grabs these water particles and delivers them directly into the skin. I follow this exact method, except I use a full pump for face and neck and it sinks in beautifully. Can be used both am and pm, however this has been my go to am serum. Would be a wonderful hydrating buffer when using stronger retinol as well.
As with any hyaluronic acid serum, must follow with moisturizer or oil, or in my case I boost my moisturizer with few drops of oil (in this case Rose Plus Booster, which is my all time fave rose oil).

Inci List includes, Australian Sandalwood wood water, Kakadu Plum fruit extract (highest concentration of Vitamin C), Davidson Plum fruit extract (anti inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant rich, and honestly amazing in muesli and smoothies!), Quandong fruit extract (rich in fatty acids, wonderful for repairing skin), Hyaluronic acid (does this need any introduction…hydration hero).

Inci List – Aqua, Santalum Spicata (Australian Sandalwood) Wood Water, Glycerin, Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract, Davidsonia Jerseyana (Davidson Plum) Fruit Extract, Santalum Acuminatum (Quandong) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Orange Bitter) Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium Rose) Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Levulinate, Sucrose, Lactic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral.

Calling it a mere hydration serum is inadequate, what makes this simple formulation wonderful and effective are the native fruit extracts which are the stars of this serum.

Performance and Efficacy – I’ve been using this consistently every morning and over time not only have I noticed plump skin (well hydrated) but also noticed subtle brightening on my skin. Doesn’t leave any residue or tacky feeling on skin and works well with any moisturiser (cream or gel or gel cream).

Overall an absolute delight to use and a wonderful hydration serum with subtle brightening effects, winner in my books (as are other products from this brand).

HHW.com

xx

Essence & Serum Loaded Pads

The skincare sphere has seen a huge influx of acid toning and peeling (AHA and BHA) pads. However, over last few years, brands are expanding the realm of convenience from acid toning peel pads to serum and antioxidants pads to nourish, protect and boost skin health. For people who travel extensively, this is a dream come true (TSA checks are hell simplified). Today, Renée aka @Gothamista and I have brought together our experience with some of these pads to help you choose the best option for yourself. Renée covers the Korean skincare pads, while I cover couple of recent launches from this side of the world.

Renée’s Review

I couldn’t review Korean skincare pads without first mentioning the actual pads that serve as the most perfect vehicles for the beautiful essences we swipe over faces. The technology behind these wipes add to and are just as much a part of the skincare experience as the formula itself. We have already experienced the sheet masks made of the softest materials that can hold an absurd amount of liquid within their fibers without anything dripping out or releasing too much. The pads in my favourite swipeys hold enough liquid for multiple layers of hydration. They also make for great cheek patches/masks or spot masking in a pinch or for areas that just need extra. There is also light texture on the pads to grip excess or unwanted lurkers on the surface of the skin and smooth things out.

My favourite pads are also the best multi-taskers around. The ultimate for reducing the steps of a skincare routine without compromising on results. Not only are these great and convenient for travel but also for crazy, everyday life when you just can’t.

Peach & Lily Lazy Day All-in-One Moisture Pads

Source: Peach and Lily website

Everyday has been a lazy day since getting my hands on these pads. They are juicy and bursting with an intensely hydrating liquid that takes the place of toner, essence and serum. One refreshing swipe-over of the face is simply not enough. I’ve used this for multiple skins, swiping, sometimes patting or swiping then patting the liquid in with my hands before swiping again. My cheeks tend to overheat easily and after a shower, I stick a pad on each cheek and leave them there for about 15 mins as they are cool and refreshing on the skin and will replenish whatever was stripped in the cleansing process.

In the Summer, there was many a night where this was the only step in my routine before face-planting into bed…and it was enough. I would wake up to plump hydrated skin. Of course, I wouldn’t be able to pull this off in the drier months without a moisturizer but it’s a substantial hydrating layer for any time of year.

The formula is a nourishing and restorative elixir containing all the elements I would want in an essence-toner and none of the ones I don’t. This has the hydrators, ceramides, fermented soy extracts and a whole salad of fruit and veggie extracts. I use this immediately after cleansing, top it with an oil then moisturizer. The minute this multi-tasking potion is bottled, I will stockpile.

Ingredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Panthenol, Sodium, Hyaluronate, Spinacia Oleracea (Spinach) Leaf Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata (Cabbage) Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Allantoin, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil

Neogen Dermatology Real Cica Pad

These pads are the ultimate multi-tasker and does it all. I can honestly say that they saved my skin during the most stressful period of my life. For 2 months, beauty and self-care were rituals I had no time for nor cared about. I mustered a routine which consisted of rinsing my skin with water, these Cica Pads, then moisturizer. Somehow, during a time when I should have grown a thick and rough, husk of neglect on my face, my skin was smooth, soft and clear the entire time and that was in no small part due to these superstar swipes.

Not only do they deeply hydrate, but they are greatly soothing as well as smoothing and refining all at once. This contains a 3 different weights of Hyaluronic acid to thoroughly keep the skin hydrated but also a robust amount of Centella Asiatica and Madecassoside to sooth and repair the skin. But the Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) in this is what kept my skin soft, bright and smooth the entire time. PHA are like AHA’s except with a larger molecular size and tend to be way gentler. You will not feel tingling or notice a drastic difference to the skin immediately like Glycolic or more concentrated AHA formulas but this is a product I used twice a day everyday – something I would never do with regular AHA treatments. This subtly kept my skin texture so refined, soft and bright everyday. There are periods of time when I want a weekly shock of strong acid but I tend to have always experienced the best results with gentle AHA’s that subtly refine everyday.

Neogen is also renowned for their pad technology. Not only do they hold an ocean of product, but each side has a different texture. One side is for refining the skin and the other smooths everything out.

Ingredietns: Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Madecassoside, Lactobionic Acid, Gluconolactone, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Octyldodecanol, Ceramide NP(Ceramide 3), Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Allantoin, Betaine, Panthenol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Propanediol, Diglycerin, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA

Binita’s Review

The newest to the market which I’ve recently tried are M61 Skincare Hydraboost HA Serum Pad and Vitablast C Serum Pad. Lets first talk about the Hydration pad, which is loaded with Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, quadruple Peptides, Vitamin B5, Vitamin E, Centella Asiatica, Tamarind Polysaccharide, Aloe juice, Wild Yam. I used this is as hydration pick me up in the morning, swipe all over. The pad itself is decently soaked to be able to take it down all the way to neck and chest. Followed with another moisturizer (if skin needs extra layering) or follow with makeup primer. Through the day skin felt plump and bouncy. It claims lasting hydration of 48 hours, but honestly who doesn’t wash their face in 48 hours and I won’t be testing that claim either. These work really well in conjunction with other peel pads too. Go over with acid pad and follow with this hydration pad and voilà done!

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Xylitylglucoside, Butylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Panthenol, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Centella Asiatica Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Superoxide Dismutase, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Fructose, Urea, Sodium Hydroxide, Maltose, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose, Allantoin, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

M61 Skincare Vitablast C Serum Pad is the one that stood out for its brightening effect. I struggle a little with vitamin C on an ongoing basis, because it tends to irritate my skin or flush red. This was the first Vitamin C serum pad I used, so my expectations were zero. With such a start, I didn’t know what to expect from this pad, aside from what was claimed on the packaging. Claims to have 15% stabilized vitamin C with Vitamin E and Gallic acid (antioxidant that helps with brightening). With fairly short ingredient listing, this pad is nicely soaked with enough product to swipe over face and neck. The product leaves slightly sticky finish on skin, even after I pat it in the skin. Not a deal breaker for me, as I follow with a moisturizer. My skin, the following morning was noticeably brighter. If I had to choose between M61’s Hydraboost or Vitablast, my choice will certainly fall with the latter.

Ingredients: Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Pentylene Glycol, Water (Aqua), Gallic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60

If you know me well, you sure as hell know how much I love a tingle, here comes in Exuviance SkinRise Bionic Tonic Pads. Non acid tingle (from peppermint and eucalyptus oil) and freshness on my skin with Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA), Gluconoloactone, Lactobionic Acid, Vitamin A, C and E, Cucumber, Eucalytptus (not for sensitive skinned folks) and Green Tea Extract. In fairness, this is formulation is loaded with ingredients as is the pad itself. To momentarily focus on formulation, it is loaded and performs as an all rounder on my skin. Whether it be under makeup or at night, it has not failed. Skin has consistently been firm, smooth and luminous with these pads.

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Gluconolactone, Propylene Glycol, Lactobionic Acid, Tocopheryl (Vitamin E) Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C Ester), Retinyl (Vitamin A) Palmitate, Arginine, Glycerin, Algae Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis (Chinese Tea) Leaf Extract, Menthyl Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Ammonium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Parfum (Fragrance), Hexyl Cinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, CI 42090 (Blue 1), CI 19140 (Yellow 5).

Other notable mentions which we have not personally tried, include, Cosrx One Step Moisture Up Pad, Citrix Vitamin C Antioxidant Pads, Rodial Vitamin C Brightening Cleansing Pads, BeautyCounter Rejuvenating Toner Pads, Serious Skincare Vitamin C Ester Pads

Gothamista & HHW.com

xx

My Guide to Earthwise Beauty

Another brand discovered through the Boxwalla subscriptions boxes, Earthwise Beauty. Founded by Ava Zhan who pours her heart, and knowledge into thoughtfully creating each product. Her intent was to create unique products, no-fillers, powerful skin care products for the modern woman. The formulations are made from unrefined, unprocessed fair-trade ingredients, unrefined botanical oils and butters, traditionally prepared herbs, and therapeutic-grade essential oils and absolutes. In the Boxwalla box, I tried a few products called Ruby facial oil, Nap in the Meadow serum and Ferizad’s Veil sunscreen. Initially I didn’t quite appreciate the products but over time of use, I realized my skin loved it. Since receiving the box, Ava and team kindly sent me some more products to try and the review below is of the products I’ve tried, enjoyed and loved. Since this post was originally published, the brand also went through major packaging and branding overhaul. The one point I made originally about their unique packaging has now changed to miron glass packaging. All I can say is I’m sad, I know and understand why it was done but I feel sad because a formulators uniqueness was not encouraged or supported by online retailers. It didn’t fit their “trendy, most sold packaging type“, so it had to be done. Moving on from my sulking, lets focus on the juice…

Marshmallow Face Cleanser didn’t meet any of my pre conceived notions of a green beauty cleanser. In a typical green/natural beauty fashion, it is not an oil or balm cleanser. It is a foaming cleanser which is blended with organic castille soap with a dash of strong-brewed calendula flowers, marshmallow root, and chamomile flowers, along with unrefined cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil, hemp seed oil and jojoba seed oil. The blue tansy, German blue chamomile oils and Lemon Balms oils are known for their anti-inflammatory, calming, soothing, repairing, and antiviral properties. This cleanser has a very soft velvety lather which doesn’t strip the skin of natural oils or leave that squeaky clean feeling. The scent is calming, earthy and green but not overpowering in any way at all. I wouldn’t use this as first cleanse or something to remove my makeup or sunscreen. This is certainly my morning or second cleanse.

Ingredients: Herbal infusion {distilled water, Althaea officinalis (marshmallow) root*, Calendula officinalis (marigold) flowers, Matricaria recutita (chamomile) buds*}, water, saponified Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil*†, cold-press unrefined Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed oil (organic whenever available), Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, cold-press whole-leaf Aloe barbadensis leaf juice*, vegetable glycerin (from non-GMO soy)*, saponified Olea europaea (olive) oil*†, potassium hydroxide (but none remains in final product, after saponifying oils into soap and glycerin), Cannabis sativa (hemp) oil*, natural ECOCERT preservative {glycerin, Leuconostoc (radish root) ferment filtrate, Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, Lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) extract, Populus tremuloides (quaking aspen) bark extract, gluconolactone}, guar gum, gluconolactone (from non-GMO corn), organic Tanacetum annuum (blue tansy/Moroccan chamomile) oil, Matricaria recutita (German blue chamomile) oil*, Melissa officinalis (lemon balm) oil*, Ferula galbaniflua (galbanum) oil*, organic Viola odorata (violet) leaf absolute, citric acid, tocopherol (vit. E from non-GMO sunflowers).

One of the newest launches from EWB is Rosa. All you need to know about Rosa: the whole Rosehip fruit is used, i.e. fruit skin, pulp and seed. Given we as consumers are swimming in a sea of standalone/single oil Rosehip oils, at various price points what you need to look out for is which part of the fruit have they used in their oils. Mainly you’d notice seed oils, not including fruit skin and pulp. Including fruit skin and pulp is where Rosa gets that rich vibrant hue and unmistakable fruity yet earthy scent in the oil. Also the fruit skin and pulp are high in carotenoids (aka excellent anti oxidants). Another very important part in any oil, is method of extraction because it impacts the oil’s performance around its inherent properties. Rosa is Cold pressed (no heat used, altering its natural properties state), Certified Organic, Unrefined (purest form, virgin oil), Undeodorized (you will still smell the true scent of the fruit), Unwinterized (all natural fats are retained in the final product).

Benefits of Rosehip are endless, for acne prone skins, sensitized skins, redness calming, hyperpigmentation, helping skin inflammation. Upon using Rosa, I could instantly feel a difference in its texture compared to many other Rosehip oils I’ve used before, it didn’t feel as thick and oily on skin. It absorbed much faster (and for even faster absorption apply on damp misted skin, it will disappear). Alternatively I also mix couple of drops in my regular night cream too, for that extra oomph. Another way is adding couple of drops to your clay mask concoction so skin doesn’t dry out on the surface. The versatility of use of single origin oil is endless, and its really up to you how you’d like to incorporate in your routines without getting strung up in strict rules.

Ingredients – Rosa canina (rosehip) fruit oil*, tocopherol (vit. E, from non-GMO sunflowers), Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract.

On a Swing Among Trees, a one of a kind product in green beauty world where many have experimented with pressed serum, oil serum, gel serum…this is a Serum in a Mist.

A mist so fine & light that envelopes your skin like cloud. Easy to go overboard misting because you want to deeply inhale the intoxicating and earthy aromas of Turmeric, Frankincense, Myrrh, German Chamomile, Saffron. It is an incredibly grounding & calming scent, like walking in a temple or my mother’s home! I have to steady my greedy, over enthusiastic finger to stop misting endlessly.

When formulating this product, Ava was very clear this isn’t intended to be a hydrating serum mist. It’s a dry serum format which basically translates to that ‘light cloud’ almost invisible mist caressing your skin. Skin feels nice, to elaborate nice….not sticky, not tacky, not oily, no residue of any form, not tight or dry… just nice, normal. Given its texture and consistency, it can be used in absolutely any routine (however given its very light texture, earlier in the routine is recommended so skin can appropriately absorb and benefit most), making it incredibly versatile in form and purpose.

Based on the inci list, aside from Turmeric Hydrosol and Aloe Leaf Juice as base, it is enriched with plant ceramides (I guess which contributes to that ‘nice’ feeling on skin for me), and some excellent oil, absolutes & extracts like Myrrh, Frankincense, Copaiba Balsam, Turmeric & German Chamomile CO2 extract (my personal fave ingredients), Saffron & Rose absolutes. Each of these bring their individual healing properties to the table, such as for wrinkles, loss of skin firmness, weak skin barrier, loss of vitality. The area where I have noticed most improvement is decongestion (thanks to Turmeric, German Chamomile) and antimicrobial properties. Especially when used in conjunction with Nap in the Meadow. This dynamic duo hydrates, plumps, decongests, and aids with HP (thanks to Saffron Absolute).

Ingredients : Curcuma longa (turmeric) rhizome hydrosol*, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice*, Sodium hyaluronate (plant-derived), plant ceramide complex (ceteareth-25 [emulsifier, 0.18% total amount in formula], glycerin, cetyl alcohol, behenic acid, cholesterol, ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide EOS, ceramide EOP, ceramide AP, caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine), Commiphora myrrha (myrrh) oil†, Boswellia (frankincense) serrata extract†, Copaifera officinalis (copaiba balsam) resin†, colloidal silver, Curcuma longa (turmeric) rhizome CO2 extract*, Chamomilla recutita (German chamomile) flower CO2 extract*, Crocus sativus L. (saffron) absolute*, potassium sorbate (natural food-grade preservative), caprylyl capryl glucoside (naturally derived, non-GMO), Citrus limon juice*, Rosa centifolia flower absolute, Ethiopian garnet gem essence, Ethiopian opal gem essence, frankincense sacra resin essence†, and myrrh resin essence†.

Thelma Lip Treatment is something I’ve struggled with a little, since every product from this brand has been a hit with me. Ingredients are stellar, but the performance is where it fell short for me. Not because it wasn’t designed well to perform well, its because I have certain pre conceived expectation of lip balm performance. I do prefer a waxy layer (think of Nuxe Reve de Miel or By Terry Rose de Baume). In this case, the balm melts in my lips and before I know it I taste it inside my mouth. I’ve varied with very little or decent proportion of application however it still didn’t work. I know Ava has put her heart and soul into it, given we’ve had chats about how difficult it is to formulate a superior performing lip balm. But for me that search continues…..

Ingredients: Cold-press unrefined Allanblackia floribunda seed butter†, Cold-press unrefined Ximenia americana seed oil†, cold-press unrefined Bertholletia excelsa (Brazil nut) seed oil* or †, cold-press unrefined Theobroma grandiflorum (cupuaçu) seed butter†, cold-press unrefined Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter* or †, cold-press unrefined Trichilia emetica (mafura) seed butter†, cold-press unrefined Platonia insignis (bacuri) seed butter†, Sambucus nigra (elderberry) fruit extract, tocopherol (vit. E from non-GMO sunflowers), Vanilla planifolia (vanilla) extract*.

Passion Eye Serum comes as a complete surprise for me. I would never opt to use an oil based serum for my eye region given I’m very prone to milia. However, pairing this with retinol based gel serum and this oil serum on top has been incredibly helpful for my eyes. The oil instantly absorbs and doesn’t feel greasy feel. Most importantly it is not so heavy on the thin skinned eye region that caused milia. Personally I still prefer to use retinol (Dr Dennis Gross eye serum or La Roche Posay Redermic R) and go over with this oil. I would be lying if I said this oil was limited to use around my eyes, I used around my lips and all over my face too! This composition certainly outperforms its simple inci list.

Ingredients: Cold-press unrefined Amaranthus hypochondriacus (amaranth) seed oil*, organic cold-press unrefined Coffea arabica (green coffee) seed oil, cold-press unrefined Carapa guianensis (andiroba) seed oil†, cold-press unrefined Bertholletia excelsa (Brazil nut) seed oil*, cold-press unrefined Astrocaryum murumuru (murumuru) fruit butter†, cold-press unrefined whole-fruit Passiflora edulis (passionfruit) oil*, cold-press unrefined whole-fruit Rosa canina (rosehip) oil*, Hippophae rhamnoides (seabuckthorn berry) Supercritical CO2 Total extract†, cold-press unrefined Calophyllum Inophyllum (tamanu) nut kernel oil* (India), tocopherol (vit. E from non-GMO sunflowers), ruby gem essence, clear quartz gem essence, lapis lazuli gem essence.

Sungod is direct descendant of Glowville. Composed with one of my most loved clay, Fullers Earth or more fondly known as Multani Mitti with Marigold flowers and Turmeric. How could this mask not be known as Sungod, is beyond me. Mixed with rosewater or whole milk, this mask packs a serious punch. This reminds me of the Haldi ceremony in Indian weddings for brides and some grooms. The golden paste of Turmeric, Sandalwood, Milk or Rosewater, is considered auspicious and sacred. This mask takes me down that path with every application. Quite special it is. Love to gently massage this off in shower and skin is left so incredibly smooth. The earthy floral scent of this mask takes me places (hello calendula and turmeric)!

Ingredients: Wildflower pollen, Solum fullonum (multani mitti, fuller’s earth) clay†, Calendula officinalis (marigold) flower petals (organic or *), Aloe barbadensis leaf*, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) petals (organic or *), Plukenetia volubilis (sacha inchi) seed*, Hydrastis Canadensis (goldenseal) rhizome (responsibly wildcrafted or *), Symphytum officinale (comfrey) leaf (wildcrafted or *), Punica granatum (pomegranate) fruit juice*, Grifola frondosa (maitake) mushroom (organic or *), Curcuma longa (turmeric) rhizome*, Withania somnifera (ashwagandha) root (organic or *), Lentinula edodes (shiitake) mushroom (organic or *), Celtic salt (France)†**.

Catharsis is a deceiving simple, yet incredibly mild, instantly soothing, calming mask for days when I had ‘unprotected time in the sun’. My fave combo of this so far has been mixing with cool green tea or mixing with some yogurt. Instant cooling effect on damaged irritated skin, or simply just soothing and calming the skin. Some would say this is tricky to apply because it slides (almost slimy application), it didn’t bother me and surely wasn’t a deal breaker in anyway.

Ingredients: Aloe barbadensis leaf powder*, Azadirachta indica (neem) leaf powder* (India), organic Spirulina platensis powder, organic broken-cell Chlorella vulgaris powder, Citrus sinensis (orange) peel powder*.

Ferns and Moss Serum a deeply nurturing, treatment facial oil for skin that needs serious nourishing, restructuring, healing. Formulated with some of my favorite oils, Andiroba and Tamanu oil. Probably least talked about or rarely seen under the spot light ingredient. But seriously fantastic oil that I also personally use in my DIY Body Oil. This facial oil serum, has some excellent Amazonian oils that are rich in Oleic acid – fantastic for mature or very dry skins. Another stellar ingredient here is Seabuckthorn CO2 extract, powerhouse for firming skin. Smells earthy and I think I can slather this all over my face in layers with some amazing results. This oil is going to be my best friend in a fast approaching winter. The best way to use this so far been by misting Cistus and Moonlight mist following with this treatment oil (instant absorption in skin). Oddly enough I have also used this on my spots that have been battered with Salicylic acid and skin around needs serious repair.

Ingredients: Cold-press unrefined Carapa guianensis (andiroba) seed oil†, cold-press unrefined Moringa oleifera seed oil* or †, cold-press unrefined Schinziophyton rautanenii (manquetti mongongo) seed oil†, organic cold-press unrefined unfiltered Calophyllum inophyllum (tamanu) nut kernel oil, Plukenetia volubilis (sacha inchi) oil* or †, Hippophae rhamnoides (seabuckthorn berry) Supercritical CO2 Total extract†, Calendula officinalis CO2 Total extract*, Copaifera officinalis (copaiba balsam) essential oil†, Ferula galbaniflua (galbanum) essential oil†, virgin cold-press unrefined golden Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil*, Evernia prunastri (oakmoss) absolute†.

Cistus and Moonlight Mist, is an all round special, and far from ‘standard’ toning mist. Composed with Rock Rose essential oil and hydrosol come that come together, with Monkhood, Pink Phlox, and Rainbow Moonstone flower essence and Clear Quartz gem essence. I adore how this settles and absorbs in the skin. I prefer the scent of this when it’s settled versus when misted. Not sure why, but when misted to my nose (totally a personal thing) it smells like moldy rose but when settles it’s incredibly calming and soothing on my skin. I’ve tried misting on top of my makeup and it doesn’t dehydrate my skin at all.

Ingredients: Cistus ladanifer (rock rose) hydrosol* or (Portugal), cold-press whole-leaf Aloe barabensis juice*, Cistus ladanifer (rock rose) essential oil†, potassium sorbate (natural food-grade preservative), wild Aconitum delphinifolium (monkshood) flower essence, wild Phlox longifolia (pink phlox) flower essence, rainbow moonstone gem essence, mangano calcite gem essence, clear quartz gem essence.

Selene Facial Steam seems like a product that would be quite easily overlooked, but that in my opinion would be a mistake. This is a ritual your skin needs to experience. Take a moment, pause, breathe and give yourself some time. In a pot of hot water (enough to create steam), soak these flowers, and with towel on my head so steam doesn’t escape. When the steam from these flowers encounters your skin and you breathe deep, OH MY LORD my brain cells unravels new sensation of calmness and stillness.

Ingredients: Achillea millefolium (white yarrow) flowers†, Chrysanthemum indicum flowers (organic whenever available), Centaurea cyanus (cornflowers)†, Verbascum sinuatum or Verbascum densiflorum or Verbascum thapsus (mullein) flowers* or †, Camellia sinensis (green tea) leaves (organic whenever available), Plantago major (plantain) leaves†.

One of 2017 launches was the Tigress balm a vegan, noncomedogenic balm which claims to be healing, deeply penetrating to invigorate the skin tissue, heal acne breakouts, reduce acne and blackhead tendencies, balance excessive oil production, and firm the skin in the long run. It also protects from moisture loss and from the wind and cold.

In an ocean of beauty balms in miron glass jars, this balm is refreshing not only for its packaging but also ingredients and scent. For me this is a strong statement given I make my own balms and particularly keep a keen eye for balms formulated without Shea and Cocoa butter. Therefore in an effort to dodge these ingredients, some of the ingredients on this list were not only familiar but also comforting to me because I know and can attest to their beneficial properties.

Ingredients: Cold-press unrefined Garcinia indica (kokum) kernel butter†, cold-press unrefined Virola surinamensis (ucuuba) seed butter†, cold-press unrefined whole-fruit Passiflora edulis (passionfruit) oil*, cold-press unrefined Attalea speciosa (babassu) kernel oil†, cold-press unrefined Pouteria sapota (sapote) kernel oil†, cold-press unrefined Calophyllum inophyllum (tamanu) nut kernel oil*, cold-press unrefined organic Rosa canina (whole-fruit rosehip) oil, cold-press unrefined Coffea (green coffee) bean oil*, vitamin E (from certified non-GMO sunflowers), supercritical co2 select Curcuma longa (turmeric) rhizome extract*, Boswellia carterii (frankincense) oil†, Nardostachys jatamansi (spikenard) oil† (Nepal), Pinus edulis (pinyon pine) oil†, Helichrysum italicum (Italian everlasting) absolute (France), Usnea (old man’s beard) lichen CO2 extract (Helianthus annuus [sunflower] seed oil, and polyglyceryl-6 caprylate [emulsifier], and polyglyceryl-3 palmitate [emulsifier] and Usnea barbata lichen extract*. *Certified organic.  †Responsibly wildcrafted.

A soft emollient balm, that melts upon touch and absorbs without a sticky feel is a boon to many. The scent is unique and will not be found in the market at all. It’s difficult to describe but I’d call it a deep animalic, spicy nutmeg, mossy forest. If you’re naturally inclined towards light floral, sweet, gourmand scents you won’t be able to appreciate this at all. It does need an open and welcoming mind. The consistency is of a soft, where you don’t need extra force to scoop some out. Soft and melts upon touch. Now that’s a proper consistency of a balm. As for its benefits, I like how it has healed my skin from retinol torture where skin was dry and slightly flakey. It is also wonderful as a spot treatment, where it worked its magic on healing the spot and reducing redness. Overall given the nature of a balm, it is wonderful for sealing the skin and protecting it from harshness of heaters and Chicago wind chill.

Looking at the pic above, naming it Nap in the Meadow (NiM) was the most appropriate name. It claims to deliver a broad range of benefits in a single product: deep hydration, strong anti-inflammatory action, anti-oxidants, anti-aging benefits, refreshing effects, and even some acne reducing, tissue repairing, and sunburn and sun damage repair.
Ingredients: Cold-press aloe barbadensis leaf juice*, Sambucus nigra (elderberry) fruit extract††, Curcuma longa (turmeric) root Supercritical CO2 Select* extract*, caprylyl capryl glucoside (naturally derived), Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil (* and †), Achillea millefolium (yarrow) oil*, Helichrysum italicum (Italian everlasting) oil†, Marticaria recutita (German blue chamomile) oil*, potassium sorbate (natural food-grade preservative), organic Pelargonium graveolens (geranium bourbon) oil, Pelargonium roseum (geranium rose) oil*, Copaifera officinalis (copaiba balsam) resin†, Ferula galbaniflua (galbanum) essential oil*, xanthan gum, ascorbic acid (vit. C), wildflower essences†. *Certified organic. †Responsibly wildcrafted. ††ECOCERT/COSMOS approved and Australian Certified Organic. Aloe certified by the International Aloe Science Council (IASC) for purity and content.

Glancing through the inci list, the claims of anti inflammatory, refreshing effects, and some acne reducing, tissue repairing, and sunburn and sun damage repair stood true in my experience. As for deep hydration claim didn’t work for me in Chicago weather. Perhaps another city or my home city of Melbourne – Aus, it might be a different story. I’ve used NiM standalone and mixing with another moisturiser. Either way it works wonderfully, and especially under makeup. More importantly and one of the core reasons why I adore NiM is because over time, I’ve noticed it helped keeping underlying congestion at bay. And gradually I fell in love with the addictive scent. Initially I felt it was overpowering but it grew on me to a point, where I craved it in the morning.

Next up is Carrot-a-Day or I’d like to call NiM’s younger sibling. I remember in my conversations with Ava, she said if I like NiM I must try Carrot as it may be a stronger variant. Upon trying it I must say, she is spot on right. Smells sharper and medicinal and can be directly attributed to Carrot Seed Oil. I’ve extensively used this oil in my own balm so I knew I was in a familiar place. It is an excellent ingredient and in my opinion fairly underrated too, for its efficacy. The carrot seed oil is also skin tissue regenerating and repairing. I cannot sing enough praises for the core of this product.

Ingredients: Cold-press aloe barbadensis leaf*, Daucus carota (carrot) seed essential oil*, natural non-GMO tocopherol (vit. E from sunflowers), Helichrysum italicum (Italian everlasting) oil*, natural ECOCERT preservative {glycerin, Leuconostoc (radish root) ferment filtrate, Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, Lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) extract, Populus tremuloides (quaking aspen) bark extract, gluconolactone}, Marticaria recutita (German blue chamomile) oil*, carbomer, ascorbic acid (vit. C), Mentha spicata (spearmint) oil*. *Certified organic. Aloe certified by the International Aloe Science Council (IASC) for purity and content.

Could I say I prefer Carrot over NiM…..I couldn’t choose one over the other. NiM is my first love, Carrot is my present. Hence both will stay with me in one form or another. Anyway, there is a milder variant of Carrot available for sensitive skinned people. As for me personally, I like it strong with a Bam effect.

Moving onto facial oil domain, we have Antioxidant Facial oil called Ruby, has taken the definition of oil absorbency into the skin to a new level. As you may know, I’m an oil fanatic, my respect for oils is immense for how much benefit it provides to the skin. However, in the natural beauty industry where everyone is creating one now, understanding oils and skin needs is of utmost importance. The heart of this formulation is antioxidant-rich oils (buriti and pequi), wrinkle-reducing and sun-damage-correcting oils (raspberry, buriti, rosehip, primrose), noncomedogenic oils (milk thistle, guava, rosehip, cranberry), Turmeric CO2 extract and whole-plant celery CO2 extract.

My absolute favourite ingredient is Turmeric CO2 extract which I generously use in my own balm formulations too. I cannot vouch enough for its effectiveness in calming spots, underlying congestion, helping eczema prone skins too (based on feedback I’ve received). So long story short, I adore the line up of ingredients and rich vibrant colour of this oil.

Ingredients: Organic cold-press unrefined Psidium guajava (guava) seed oil (India), organic cold-press unrefined Silybum marianum (milk thistle) seed oil, cold-press unrefined Vacinnium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil*, cold-press unrefined organic whole-fruit Rosa canina (rosehip) oil, cold-press unrefined Plukenetia volubilis (sacha inchi) seed oil*, cold-press unrefined Rubus ideaus (raspberry) seed oil (organic whenever available), organic cold-press unrefined Caryocar braziliensis (pequi) fruit oil, wildcrafted cold-press unrefined Moringa oleifera seed oil, cold-press unrefined Calophyllum inophyllum (tamanu) nut kernel oil* (India), organic cold-press unrefined Mauritia flexuosa (buriti) fruit oil, Curcuma longa (turmeric) root Supercritical CO2 Select* extract*, vit. E (from certified non-GMO sunflowers), organic Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) seed CO2 Total extract, organic Apium graveolens L. (celery)  CO2 Total extract, wildcrafted Acacia dealbata (mimosa) flower absolute (artisanally extracted in Grasse, France). *Certified organic.

I’ve used Ruby under makeup, layered with other skincare in evenings, and in all routines it has consistently performed. Due to its light consistency and high absorbency properties it layers extremely well. I also love adding Ruby to DIY clay masks, it ensures the skin isn’t dry or tight. I could endlessly rave about versatility of oils, but one more way I like using Ruby is mixing it with other moisturizers. Ruby would be excellent for oily, combination, sensitive and congestion prone skins. For more mature and drier skins, I believe oils with higher oleic acid would prove beneficial.

Next up, Ambrosia del Cerrado a unique formulation of hybrid of toner and moisturiser. Or as I like to call it my Cheerful Sunshine. Formulated with glorious cold pressed (to understand why cold pressed look at this post) Pequi, Buriti and Moringa oils and blended with Aloe leaf juice. Ingredients : Cold-press aloe barbadensis whole-leaf juice*, sustainably wildcrafted cold-press unrefined Caryocar braziliensis (pequi) fruit oil, sustainably wildcrafted cold-press unrefined Mauritia flexuosa (buriti) fruit oil, sustainably wildcrafted cold-press unrefined Moringa oleifera seed oil, polysorbate 20 (naturally derived), potassium sorbate (natural food-grade preservative), natural non-GMO tocopherol (vit. E from sunflowers), xanthan gum, ascorbic acid (vit. C), citric acid. *Certified organic. Aloe certified by the International Aloe Science Council (IASC) for purity and content.

For summer, I loved Ambrosia under my makeup. Upon dispensing from pipette its a lotion consistency however once you spread over skin, its uber light and absorbs instantaneously. The beauty of this consistency is that it can be paired or mixed with anything at all. I’ve tried this with NiM and for me they are the power couple. The scent is something to ravel in, bright cheerful citrusy notes. I believe this is an outstanding product for those with sensitivity to essential oils because they are none. No added essential oils or fragrances.

Now, who doesn’t love a solid, deep cleansing, exfoliating, skin detoxifying mask which slaps skin and breakouts out of the park. Well that in essence is Frightening Green Face Mask (discontinued). A clay mask, strong herbal scent, mildly exfoliating but very importantly, not drying to the skin. Since making my own concoctions of clay masks, and as much as I love this mask I couldn’t justify the price to this. Clay is one of the cheapest ingredients and to pay $$ makes me slightly uncomfortable….and yes that includes addition of all other ingredients too. However, if you want to indulge…..

Ingredients: Montmorillonite (French green clay), Hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) hydrosol*, raw cruelty-free unfiltered honey, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf* and oil*, Thymus vulgaris (thyme) leaf*, Laminaria digitata (kelp)*, potassium sorbate (natural food-grade preservative), water, Passiflora quadrangularis (passionfruit) extract, Citrus medica limonum (lemon) extract, Ananas sativus (pineapple) extract, Vitis vinifera (white grape) extract, Eucalyptus globulus oil*, Thymus vulgaris ct. linalool (thyme) oil*, Juniperus communis (juniper) berry oil*. *Certified organic.

Overall, all of Earthwise Beauty’s creations are beyond exquisite. Based on all the formulations, you can clearly tell the creator has an intricate understanding of each ingredient and how it performs in the formulations. The ingredients are not only responsibly sourced (fair trade), but also carefully chosen based on extraction type. One thing I most respect is the complete explanation and disclosure of ingredients including source and extraction method. Hard to find this level of transparency. The product packaging and labelling is simple, colourful and unique. In a world of natural beauty, where almost every second brand is leaping at miron glass with gold embossed font, here is a refreshing look at the packaging which helps associate its own identity. Kudos to Ava and team for that!!!

Source: all raw ingredients and formulation pics are from Earthwise Beauty website.

Disclosure: Products gifted by the brand

HHW.com

xx

Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense & Tranexamic Acid

The newest launch from Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense with 5% Niacinamide, 3% Tranexamic Acid, and 1% Kojic Acid. Based on these hero ingredients, you’d expect improvements in skin discoloration as a result of excessive UV exposure, hormonal fluctuations, acne scars, melasma, aging, etc.

To better understand how this product works, it is important to understand the formulation and chosen star ingredients. My focus for this post is going to be Tranexamic acid, a water soluble amino acid hugely popular in south east Asia while gaining momentum in western markets. This ingredient is by no means a new discovery, and it’s been around for a long time. By the very nature of its properties, this acid is used for blood clotting during surgeries, heavy periods, etc. However, in the skincare world, this ingredient is used in small amounts to reduce redness and improve pigmented spots. Used to treat melasma or hyperpigmentation caused by UV radiation, photosensitization (can be caused due to essential oils too), hormonal influences, post spots scars (HIP). Known to be just as effective as Hydroquinone, which is fantastic news for coloured skins given our limitations with using Hydroquinone.

There are myriad ways of delivery and formulation around this ingredient. As for Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense the product is paired with Niacinamide and Kojic Acid, while SkinMedica Lytera 2.0 paired with Niacinamide, Phenylethyl Resorcinol (antioxidant ingredient used for lightening and brightening – synthetic compound derived from scotch pine bark), Tetrapeptide-3.0, Marine Algae Extract and Phytic acid, and Su-man Velvet skin brightening serum paired with Hyaluronic acid and Dragons blood extract. Ultimately it depends on your skin needs and what ingredients are you looking for as a ‘package’.

As mentioned earlier Asian markets already love this ingredient and widely used in sheet masks such as My Beauty Diary, Kose (Clear Turn) and Essence and Serums from Hada Labo (Shirojyun Premium), Shiseido (White Lucent, Aqualabel), Cle de Peau (Brightening Serum), Naruko (Apple and Tranexamic acid line), Bio essence (Tanaka White range with Tanaka extract, Kojic acid and Arbutin). This can be an endless list, therefore the point is, it is a widely used, effective ingredient and available in various formats and formulations. These are some combinations summarized which can help you identify which product formulation would best address your needs:

Niacinamide	Rosacea prone skin Reduces redness and it has anti-inflammatory effects
Azelaic acid Boswellic acid	Reduces bacterial activity Reduce increased activity of natural proteases
Kojic Acid	Protein called Tyrosinase Prevents skin pigmentation and help with brightening
Arbutin	Derived synthetically but naturally derived from Bearberry plant Prevents skin pigmentation and help with brightening

Lets focus on Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense’s Ingredient listing (key ingredients will be bolded):

Aqua / Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid (HEPES), Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Kojic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta

The claims of “improves the appearance of skin discoloration, brightens skin, and evens skin tone” aligns well with the ingredient listing. Improvement of discoloration, brightening and evening of skin tone is covered by Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, and Kojic Acid. On the other hand we have HEPES….not Herpes! A synthetically-derived acid activates natural enzymes in skin to help break the bonds that bind dead skin cells to the surface for even exfoliation. The formulation is developed with a targeted and focused inci list for specific skin concern. Also this can be used on all skin types.

Now onto my experience with Discoloration Defense – initially completely thrown off by the consistency and texture of the serum. I tried applying at ‘serum stage’ but didn’t see any visible impact or improvement, possibly because it didn’t absorb in skin so well (due to other products used before). With that in mind, I changed my method, now I use it in the following order of my routine:

Option 1: cleanse – acid – toning mist – Discoloration Defense – Sheet mask with Tranexamic Acid – seal with cream/oil/balm

Option 2: cleanse – acid – toning mist – Discoloration Defense – essence (thicker than toning mist) – layering another treatment product (optional) – cream/oil/balm

The point is, due to the thinner (almost water like but slightly thicker than water) consistency, I use it before essence or any other denser product. Simple rule of thumb, thinnest to thickest. Give it a few minutes to soak and I feel it leaves a sticky residue on skin but following by balm or cream or oil, it’s almost negated. In terms of visible improvements on skin, long story short it works for me with some visible improvements. I used all over and as a spot treatment as well. Also, used in conjunction with Naruko Dermalane Mandelic Acid serum the results are astounding (almost an accelerated improvement). Given some of the scarring and pigmentation is fairly recent and new, the improvement was visibly faster. The older stubborn patches are still working their way through, although I think I might need something tad more aggressive and deeper for that (laser or peels). Effective yet gentle on skin, no dryness, tightness, flakiness or any such side effects.

Speaking of which in south east Asia (also in Europe), a combination of fruit acid peels, microdermabrasion, IPL and laser treatments is used in conjunction with liposomal tranexamic acid preparations. One important point to note is, Tranexamic acid is effective in low dosage; high dosage will not improve the effects but rather cause irritations to the skin (as with many skincare active ingredients). With that said, I hope more and more brands embrace this ingredient and formulate some products around it particularly for western markets.

HHW.com

xx