Aldi – Lacura Caviar Illumination

27430297-B4EF-4EAC-9727-8E452CB29A10_1_201_aNever in my wildest dreams I thought I’d be reviewing Aldi supermarket branded skincare range. Yet here I am! Furthermore, I took the longest time to review as well because I was in denial with the quality and performance of a supermarket branded skincare range. Moving on from my denial issues, let’s talk about the range itself. The Caviar range is sold out within minutes (in Australia) on its ‘special buy’ days. I witnessed this first hand myself, where the entire shelf was emptied in first six minutes of the store opening. Its crazy how this product is so insanely popular outside, however barely talked or mentioned about in our skincare community. Fear not, because that’s exactly what I’m about to delve in.

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Touted to be the dupe for ultra luxe brand La Prairie Caviar collection, except that costs an arm and a leg, perhaps kidney and liver too. Comparatively, Lacura Caviar range retails at an incredibly low price (in UK £6.99, while in Australia I purchased the pack of night cream, day cream and eye gel for $29.99). The prime time ingredient in these creams is Caviar extract, which claims to make the skin lifted, tightened and toned. Caviar extract is rich in protein, vitamins and minerals and it reportedly tackles signs of ageing. Onto each product in the range that I tried:

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Aldi Laura Caviar Illumination Night Cream claims to be a deeply intensive moisturiser that will leave you with silky smooth and supple skin following morning. I appreciate the claims are simple and realistic of a night cream and doesn’t sell the world of promises for a night cream. Sure, knock yourself out if a serum sells bigger promises but in all honesty a night cream is essentially the last step in your routine sealing all the actives and goodness of a serum and moisturizing your skin overnight. I would expect it to perform with that level of expectation. Now onto the actual juice, lets review the inci list:

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Top: Lacura Caviar, Bottom: La Prairie

Obvious ingredient of Caviar extract (11th ingredient), while other stand outs include Panthenol aka Provitamin of B5, Globe Daisy extract (helps with skin redness enhances natural skin glow), Snow Algae extract, Peptide, Sodium Hyaluronate. If you closely review the inci list you will see, most of the moisturizing ingredients and humectants are listed above in the inci list, followed by the actives, and finally emulsifiers and preservatives. Based on that, you’d expect to see soft, nourished, and plump skin.

Comparatively, the La Prairie Luxe Cream inci list is more comprehensive aside from star ingredient of Caviar extract (24th ingredient). Although first few lines include silicones, emulsifiers and fatty alcohols. But it also includes Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Algae Extract, Shea Butter, Lactobacillus Ferment, Polyglucuronic Acid, Sea Lettuce Extract,  Saxifraga Sarmentosa (type of herb) extract, Grape Fruit Extract, Mulberry Root Extract, Chinese Skullcap Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Horsetail Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Sage Leaf Extract, Calendula Flower Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid.

With the addition of these other ingredients in a night cream, I’m not sure how the performance or claims are much different to Lacura brand. Also does the addition of these ingredients in their formulation warrant a $$$ price point? Food for thought, I wouldn’t comment as I have not personally used this cream so surely cannot compare its performance and results.

Lacura Caviar packaging is in a gorgeous blue glass jar which looks just every bit luxe (you can compare packaging beauty with much dearer options alongside). It smells like French cream in a luxe pot, nothing offensive, very pleasant.ABF6C374-B68A-4399-8F4E-E81AB72A1A26_1_201_a For fragrance sensitive skin folks you might feel its much, but I absolutely adore it. The texture and consistency is light cream, doesn’t feel heavy at all. Most importantly works incredibly well with other skincare products in a routine and doesn’t cause any piling. Absorbs in the skin like a dream and doesn’t leave a tacky finish at all. It feels like velvet on skin, and settles in without any visible trace. Following morning, my skin is plump and supple. It didn’t diminish lines or wrinkles or whatever, nothing drastic but performed like a stellar night cream. Sealed it all in without creating any drama with other products, sealed and protected my skin overnight and following morning woke up to supple, plump and soft skin. Absolute winner in my books for the price point!! Definite repurchase.

Aldi Laura Caviar Illumination Day Cream with SPF15 (UVA/UVB protection) is quite the opposite of what I expected. I thought with ‘day cream’ in its name, it would be lighter consistency, however this is a denser cream in the jar. Of course the packaging didn’t fault, again a silver glass jar. Any one of these jars on your skincare vanity would look amazing, not for a minute an unaware person could say this is a supermarket branded skincare. Now for this day cream, one may ask if this is chemical or physical sunscreen in the formulation, well it is chemical with addition of Octocrylene, while other standard caviar range ingredients are included (Panthenol aka Provitamin of B5, Globe Daisy extract, Snow Algae extract, Peptide, Sodium Hyaluronate).

While the consistency is slightly denser, it doesn’t feel so on application or doesn’t even impact the absorbency in skin. Given it has sunscreen component to it, I feel if not massaged in skin properly it can leave me a whitish cast; but that’s only if I don’t massage it in skin thoroughly. Makeup sits really well over this cream and no piling experienced. Skin is well moisturized and nothing I could fault in this cream, however I still prefer lighter creams or gels during the day. Perhaps in cooler weather I would have a different take on it.

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And the last product I tried from Aldi Lacura Caviar range is the Eye Mousse. Sheer perfection of consistency and texture, exactly as the name suggests…a Mousse. Light, fluffy, gel like consistency that absorbs instantly in my skin. Didn’t cause any milia which is usually my first concern when trialling any new eye product. Personally I did not notice any visible impact on fine lines around my eyes, but where it helped me was with puffiness under my eyes, and that’s where I draw the line. Although very pleasant to use and perhaps if I was committed to using it more consistently, I may have more to report on its results.

Now there are many other products available in the Caviar range, however I’ve yet to see it an Australian Aldi. I know UK Aldi’s sells the extended range which includes three minute peel mask, eye roll on, and seven day intensive treatment (ampoule format). I would absolutely love to try the intensive treatment however until these are available down under, my top pick is surely the Night Cream. If you want to try one product in this range it would be that cream, and perhaps if you don’t mind denser day creams.

HHW.com

xx

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Zelens Youth Glow Foundation & Velvet Lipstick

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Zelens developed by Dr Marko Lens, an internationally renowned authority in the field of skin aging, skin cancer and for his excellent skincare products. His deep knowledge of skincare also includes the study of traditional Japanese Kampo medicine. Whilst his skincare has been widely raved and approved by many skincare authorities (likes of Caroline Hirons), his makeup is lesser known and reviewed. So, recently I was gifted one of his foundations to try, by Calissa (one of brand’s online stockist). Without further ado, diving straight into it:

The foundation itself is packaged in standard Zelens skincare packaging, slim tall frosted glass bottle with a pump. Reminds me a little of Chanel-esque packaging with frosted glass so feels tad luxe. Pump action is effortless and dispenses just right. Now bear in mind I’m not a heavy or full coverage foundation wearer so one pump or one and half pump is more than sufficient for my face and neck. Good control over pump action too, where I can dispense half a pump.234BCFEF-EBD4-4F63-A40C-FC81BDA7F04C_1_201_a

Onto the formulation, typically I wouldn’t delve into foundation formulation but given this is from a skincare whizz, it needs to be talked about. Some ingredients that have been given special mention in the formulation and why they’re special:

  • Uyaku – a natural molecule extracted from the Japanese evergreen spicebush – this unique ingredient helps synchronise circadian rhythms, which are easily upset by ageing, stress and seasonal transitions. In the afternoon and evening, these molecules stimulate protection, cell division and DNA repair, whilst late at night and early in the morning they encourage cell renewal, so skin quickly becomes clearer, brighter and more even with increased elasticity and strength.
  • Sesame protein has an instant ‘tightening’ effect, Hyaluronic acid plumps and hydrates, Shiso leaf provides protection from the elements, Vegetable polyglycerides exhibit exceptional skin conditioning benefits, Cutting-edge diamond spheres then work to convert invisible UV light to blue light (photo-luminescence), creating a flattering, soft focus effect and reducing the appearance of wrinkles, shadows and discolouration, for skin that looks younger and exudes an enviable vitality.

Inci List – Aqua (Water), Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dextrin Palmitate, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, Hyaluronic Acid, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract (Uyaku), Hydrolyzed Pearl, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silanetriol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Polyethylene, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cera Alba (Beeswax), Sodium Chloride, Boron Nitride, Glycerin, Silica, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Carbonate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Pectin, Xanthan Gum, PVP, Parfum (Fragrance), Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linalool, [+/- (May Contain) CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77499 (Iron Oxides)].

Screen Shot 2020-02-17 at 7.17.30 PMOnto the texture and feel, it smells very similar to their Z Luminous Brightening Serum, which is pleasant and much like french skincare. I can’t seem to specifically pinpoint any fragrance notes in the serum. The texture itself is like serum cream but with foundation pigment. I apply with fingers and effortlessly blends and settles in skin. I’ve tried with brush too, but I feel with such expensive product, the brush absorbs tad much. Unlike mainstream foundations, I really don’t feel this one warrants buffing in with a brush. Perfect for someone like me, “finger slap dash application” method (very technical).

The finish is light to sheer coverage, you’d definitely need concealer for dark circles or any spots you’d want to cover. Personally I prefer this method, as it lets my skin, just be skin, let it breathe and pack on coverage only where I need. Plus it looks incredibly natural in broad daylight or even in the judgy office lights. The dewy finish is my preferred finish however if set with powder it can be matte finish too (which sets well). For me, this has been my go to perfect everyday foundation, as it wears particularly well over sunscreen too. It wore well through the day with and without a primer but I always have some kinda moisturizer or primer on my skin (any makeup just performs better). Skin appears plump and not like prune by the end of day. Perhaps that can be attributed to some of glorious inci inclusions too.

After my endless gushing, one would question what’s not so good? Well a very limited shade range (all of five shades, of which predominantly focused on fairer paler skins, more pinkish undertones, no availability for warm undertones, could possibly fit in shade called Tan (haven’t tried that) but not nearly adequate. In doing so, eliminated a large demographic. Also trying before buying is very tricky as samples and swatches are mainly online (depending on your location, unless you have a SpaceNK near you). In addition, very limited accessibility. And the biggest downside, the exorbitant price tag (£62.00 for 30ml) Zelens Foundation comes with….. brings a tear to my eye. Whereas Chanel Vitalumiere is £40.00 for 30ml, so you see the tear is justifiable.

All in all, this is an excellent foundation and I personally would purchase it however, there is no hiding from the fact that it is indulgence at its finest. I cannot see anyone ‘needing’ this foundation as similar finishes can also be achieved with more inexpensive options. So stalking for some deals or sales is worth the wait on this one.

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Next up is the Extreme Velvet Lipstick in Nude Pink. Claims to be “a moisturising highly-Screen Shot 2020-02-17 at 7.25.12 PM
pigmented lipstick infused with a unique blend of active ingredients providing treatment benefits. Helps to plump lip volume, reshape contours, reduce the appearance of vertical lines and restore suppleness. Delivers rich long-wearing colour with a velvety, soft matte finish.”

Well this is a tricky one, this is a lipstick and works and functions like a lipstick! I haven’t noticed any reshaping contours, reduction in appearance of lines. Yes it is smooth application, properly pigmented with just one swipe. Feels velvety on lips, and stays put. Doesn’t creep into fine lines around crevices of my mouth and stays put nicely. The shade I have here is Nude Pink and on my pigmented lips appears more cooler toned pink than warm beigey nude pink. I guess one could say, the line overall is catered to more fairer, cooler toned population. Not saying it cannot work for medium toned folks, but not an instant match. The beautiful thing is this works wonderfully as cream blush too, blends effortlessly and nice stain on cheeks.

Overall, I would still think Zelens first and foremost for skincare but wouldn’t entirely discount the skin and base products. Of course at a price of indulgence.

** Products Gifted by Calissa

HHW.com

xx

Votary London Super Seed Oil & Cream

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Latest Boxwalla boasts Votary London’s Super Seed range, which is aimed for sensitive, dry, hormonal and redness prone skin. Without further ado, lets go straight into my review:

Super Seed Nutrient Cream is formulated without essential oils, fragrance free, enriched with Fatty Alcohols, 22 super seed oils, Mango butter and Aloe Vera Leaf Juice. Also includes potent hyaluronic acid for hydration.

I’ve tested the cream in my day and night routines, in cool (13-14 degrees) and warm weather (38-41 degrees). This cream is rich, oh yes no mucking about there but it is not pore clogging at all. It claims to be soothing, nourishing and protecting – completely agree with it all. While formulated for sensitive, in hormonal flux or unsettled skins, I think this would be excellent also on over exfoliated skin, abused and tortured skin (hello tret users), sunburnt skin, freshly lasered skin.

Perfect for layering (no piling experienced, either with oil under or over), excellent sealant over any oil or balm leaving a velvet finish on skin. Its beautiful under makeup making it an excellent primer as well and makeup sets nicely (no creasing or setting in fine lines). Lazy nights include a thorough cleanse, hydration serum and this cream. Done and my skin still appears plump and rested following morning.

Inci List: Aqua (Water), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil, Sodium Phytate Hyaluronate, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Seed Oil, Nigella Sativa (Black Cumin) Seed Oil, Papaver Orientale (Poppy) Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum (Flax) Seed Oil, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Blueberry) Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil, Prunus Avium (Sweet Cherry) Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) Flower Oil, Passiflora Edulis (Passion Fruit) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Phytate, Sorbic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Xanthan Gum.

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Next up is the Super Seed Facial Oil, honestly, I’ve barely reached for the Facial oil, perhaps 3-4 times, not because anything is wrong with it. Its light, without any essential oils or fragrances (making it perfect for sensitive reactive skins). I used about 7-8 drops all over face, neck and décolletage. It absorbs nicely in the skin, no sticky or oily residue on skin, even the oily skins would love this oil. So one may ask, why haven’t I reached for it as much, well it didn’t excite me! Its an oil, I’ve tried many many oils and anyone who knows me well enough, is versed with my love for oils and balms. But this just doesn’t excite me enough to reach for it. Its an oil!!!

As for the inci list, claims to be formulated with 22 Seed Oils – Grapeseed, Pumpkin, Cranberry, Chia, Meadowfoam, Black Seed, Camellia, Hemp, Strawberry, Poppy, Pomegranate, Blueberry, Linseed, Rosehip Fruit, Borage, Broccoli, Cherry, Melon, Raspberry, Sunflower, Carrot Seed and Calendula flower extract (which I don’t believe comes from seeds, but from petals, please correct me if I’m wrong).

I would recommend to get this box purely for the Nutrient Cream, which in itself is excellent value ($102 for cream, $110 for oil and box is $49.95) and thankfully the box subscription is extended till February 20th, 2020.

Inci List: Vitis Vinifera (Grapeseed) Oil, Curcubita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Oil, Limanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Nigella Sativa (Black Seed) Oil, Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil, Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Seed Oil, Papaver Somniferum (Poppy) Seed Oil, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Corymbosum (Blueberry) Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Oil, Tocopherol Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil, Prunus Cerasus (Cherry) Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus (Melon) Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil

**PR Gift

HHW.com

xx

My Guide to Elemis Moisturizers

0EF7BAD7-7BE4-47D4-A7BC-7BBAB3FBD86B_1_201_aElemis Moisturizers, in my opinion have the best range of moisturizers, that are luxurious, sensory treat to use, and most importantly effective! However they have a fair few to choose from, and here is my breakdown:

🔮Pro Collagen Marine Cream is hailed as the cult / best selling moisturizer from Elemis. It has shown to reduce the depth of wrinkles, improve skin firmness, tone and hydration in 14 days. This is one for all and all for one. Faking good skin is achieved with one, consistency not too dense, easily absorbed, and layers well. Would suit most skin types as it’s not very heavy on EO’s (not to be confused with botanical extracts). Basically a solid moisturizer for night or day.

Inci List – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens (Mimosa) Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia (Rose) Flower Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polyisobutene, Fragrance (Parfum), Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Limonene. (N)

🔮Pro Collagen Overnight Matrix is slightly more richer than above. This does a little more than just good skin, has visibly improved my barrier and plumped my skin. In terms of ingredients more than moisturizing ingredients (oils, butters, squalane), such as Peptides, Peacock’s tail algae, Microalgae and Wild Indigo Oligosaccharides (helps with hydration and barrier function). This would be lovely for mature skins, or skins needing more oomph with their moisturizer. Beyond basic.

Inci List – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Olus Oil/Vegetable Oil/Huile Végétale, Propanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Beheneth-25, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Benzoic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Disodium EDTA, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Linalool, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Geraniol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Chlorphenesin, Plankton Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caramel, Cinnamomum Camphora (Camphor) Wood Oil, Limonene, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Fragrance (Parfum), Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Menthol, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Phenylpropanol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate.

🔮Pro Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream is a delight, my one stop shop. Personally this is my fave of all. A mousse like consistency, smells like a calm night & air scented with blooming white florals. This has helped my skin with visible radiance. Can’t speak to its anti aging benefits but definitely radiant skin. Ingredient wise stellar, Algae & Red Coral, Peacock’s tail algae, Peptide, rich Sesame, Avocado, Jojoba Oils. This is a sensory treat to use, possibly more than the one above and really helps calms me down with a deep breath. Again most skin types can use this but the limiting factor can be the price.

Inci Listm – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lauryl Laurate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil Unsaponifiables, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Algae Extract (Red Algae), Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil, Hexapeptide-9, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Fragrance (Parfum), Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Phytosterols, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Linalool, Citronellol, Tocopherol, Limonene, Geraniol, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract, Malic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Mannitol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Diatomaceous Earth, Zinc Sulfate.

🔮Peptide Night Recovery Cream-Oil, the entire Peptide4 range from Elemis is around sychronising and following the natural circadian rhythms of the body. While the texture of this is light and fast absorbing I wouldn’t recommend this for sensitive skin given the number of essential oils (Lemon, Orange, Nutmeg, Butter Orange, Coriander) and addition of coconut oil. It does moisturise the skin very very well, and for me that’s where the benefits stop. The consistency reminds me of DrDG Peptide Milk. The scent of this product is wonderful, powered by Night scented stock (flowers that bloom in evening with gorgeous aroma that fills evening air). All in all, the experience & ritual of this cream in oil is truly lovely but the performance is basic moisturizing.

Inci List – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Matthiola Bicornis (Night Scented Stock) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance (Parfum), Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Benzoate, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract, Linalool, Limonene, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Hexyl Cinnamal, Sodium Benzoate, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Eugenol, Coumarin, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf/Twig Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil.

🔮Biotec Skin Energizing Day Cream claims to help increase cell energy. The unique thing about this cream is inclusion of encapsulated Zinc and Copper. It dispenses (pump) the energizer and cream together, mix it together and apply. I wouldn’t recommend this for very sensitive skin given the essential oils. But in terms of performance, layers well under sunscreen, hydrates skin well under makeup, and does all expected from solid day cream. However again, price can be a limiting factor.

Inci List ENERGIZER: Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearyl Palmitate, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Xanthomonas Campestris Polysaccharide, Polysorbate 20, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance (Parfum), Hydrated Silica, Disodium EDTA, Zinc, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Copper PCA, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Amber Extract, CI 77400 (Copper Powder).

Inci List CREAM: Aqua/Water/Eau, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Hexyldecanol, Cera Alba/Beeswax/Cire d’Abeille, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Coco-Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Fragrance (Parfum), Chlorphenesin, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Alisma Plantago Aquatica (Water Plantain) Extract, Maris Sal/Sea Salt/Sel Marin, Sodium PCA, Succinic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Seed Extract/Extrait de Semence d’Orge, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Amber Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract.

🔮Biotec Skin Energizing Night Cream is the richer version of day cream, imo. For night creams I think they offer a lovely range in pro collagen range, so this is one I have overlooked the most. Not because performance was meh, there was just better option from their range.

Inci List ENERGIZER: Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearyl Palmitate, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Xanthomonas Campestris Polysaccharide, Polysorbate 20, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance (Parfum), Hydrated Silica, Disodium EDTA, Zinc, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Copper PCA, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Amber Extract, CI 77400 (Copper Powder).

Inci List CREAM: Aqua/Water/Eau, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lauryl Laurate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Phospholipids, Carbomer, Fragrance (Parfum), Chlorphenesin, Stearic Acid, Calcium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Maris Sal/Sea Salt/Sel Marin, Succinic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, Propanediol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Anisate, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Seed Extract/Extrait de Semence d’Orge, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Copper Gluconate, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Amber Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Citric Acid.

Since this post was originally published, obviously Elemis have launched couple more moisturizers in their range which I have not personally tried yet. however if you have please do share your comments below.

HHW.com

xx

Cleansing & Exfoliating Powders

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We see it everywhere now, cleansing / exfoliating powders. An ancient concept and like many other Asian girls something we took for granted as a part of our childhood. I distinctly remember when I was little, my Mum made a paste and gave me a bath with that paste. Yes all over the body. Many of you will instantly think of garbanzo bean powder, or powdered green mung beans, turmeric and milk or yogurt….yes that’s exactly the ubtan I’m referring to. That exact concoction is also applied to a Indian brides before the wedding. It’s said the ubtan aids exfoliation and imparts glowing flawless skin.

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So you ask, well explain what is an Ubtan? As per ancient Ayurvedic principles and texts, it is roots, flowers, mud, clays grounded and mixed in a powder form. The benefits are endless – Natural ground powders of clay, mud, roots, flowers, spices, salts, lentils, dried fruit skin’s which can be mixed with rose water, milk, honey, yogurt whatever your skin and heart desires. Aids exfoliation, helps with glow, wonderful cleanser, incredibly cost effective however there are plenty of options to splurge on. Multi purpose as it can be cleanser or mask or an exfoliator.

Finally, the western world of skincare has caught on, well more specifically ‘western natural skincare world or green beauty world’, call it what you may! I’ve noticed three distinct categories of this, western skincare entirely, western brands inspired by Ayurvedic principles and then of course eastern brands that are entirely based on Ayurvedic principles and elaborate methods of preparation.

From May Lindstrom to Leah Lani, they’ve all formulated a version of their very own and sold as cleansing powder or exfoliating powder. The ingredients are varied between brands but after a while you tend to see a consistent trend (albeit with slightly different proportion and formulation).

Westernized Versions (bold ingredients are common)

May Lindstrom – The Clean Dirt ($60 for 200ml)
white halloysite clay, red morrocan rhassoul clay, sea salt, vitamin c, sodium bicarb, marshmallow root, spices like cinnamon, clove, turmeric, ginger, vanilla and cacao

Leah Lani – Kalima Cleansing powder  ($46 for 100ml)
coconut milk, brown rice, clay powders, guava fruit, banana, camu camu, rosehip, honeysuckle, sea salt, hibiscus, vanilla, rose, vitamin c

de Mamiel Brightening Cleanse & Exfoliate ($60 for 70g)

rhassoul clay, rose clay, sodium bicarbonate, white clay, oat flour, vitamin c, cocoa, rose, himalayan cedar wood, sandalwood, frankincense, vanilla, elderflower, marshmallow, grape, cucumber, calendula, german chamomile, gotu kola, ginseng, chrysanthemum and horsetail

Farmacy New Day Exfoliating Grains ($30 for 100g)

sodium cocoyl isethionate, corn starch, sodium bicarbonate, cranberry, water, adzuki seed, vitamin c, camellia, carrot, echinacea, glycerin, lemon willow bark, spiraling powder

One Love Brand New Day ($39 for 48g)

zea mays (corn) starch, pisum sativum (pea) flour, sodium cocoyl glutamate, kaolin, ananas comosus (pineapple) fruit extract, fragrance/parfum

The common ingredients that overlap between some of these products are Sodium Bicarbonate (resulting in fizzy emulsion making it more appealing & fun), Sea Salt, Vitamin C, Marshmallow Root, and Clay Powders. The first three ingredients mentioned is what clearly sets the Western Cleansing Powders apart from traditional Ayurvedic ubtans which are far more gentler on skin and dare I say far more “green” for skin! In my experience and opinion, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sea Salt and Vitamin C (assuming its pure Ascorbic Acid powder) can be very harsh on sensitive and sensitized skins.

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Coming to my second category, which is western skincare brand based on Ayurvedic principles and ingredients. This brings me to Mauli Rituals Radiance Exfoliant and Mask (£36.00 for 30gms or 1oz).

The inch list truly excites me, with inclusion of Fullers Earth Clay (that unmissable sweet scent),  Rose petal powder,  Sandalwood powder, Turmeric powder, Vetiver powder, Kashmiri Saffron, Asparagus, Sandalwood Oil, Rosehip,  Rose Absolute, Kashmiri Saffron Extract.

Works wonderfully as cleanser, exfoliant or mask. Versatile in use and mixing base. The luxurious  ingredient listing is much closer to authentic Ayurvedic ingredients with a clear exclusion of Sodium Bicarb, Sea Salt or any other skin stripping harsher elements.

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Closer to Ayurvedic Texts, Principles, and Ingredients

Forest Essentials ($18-$20 for 60g)
Tejasvi Milk – neem, cinnamon, fennel powder, sweet almond meal, sandalwood oil, fenugreek powder, peepal extract, anantmool powder, apricot kernel, saffron, durva extract and milk
Soundarya – orange peel, rose, jasmine, neem, oatmeal, sandalwood, turmeric, fennel, anantmool, saffron flower, lemon peel and star anise.
Multani Mitti  (my personal FAVE) – fullers clay, neem, turmeric, fenugreek seed powder, lodhra bark, woodfordia powder and banyan bark powder
Narangi (Orange) & Nagkesar (Messua ferrea) – orange peel, marigold flower, licorice root, messua ferrea, bala root, vetiver, ashwagandha, durva, neem, brahmi leaf, anantmool and cinnnamon
Roop Nikhar & Gulab (Rose) – lentil seed, rose, ornage peel, oatmeal, anantmool root, neem, katsuya powder,turmeric, saffron, cinnamon

Kama Ayurveda ($22 for 40g)

Mridul (face & body) – oatmeal, green gram, almond, neem, sandalwood, turmeric, rose and fennel.

PurEarth ($60 for 100g)
Turmeric Exfoliating Face Sand – Bitter apricot kernels, fullers earth clay, persian walnut, neem, turmeric, pomegranate, lavender, rose, seabuckthorn berry, and saffron

The web is also inundated with several DIY recipes, of which garbanzo bean powder,  mung bean powder, turmeric and milk or ghee is by far the most popular. However based on your skin’s needs, concerns and what’s available in your kitchen, these ingredients can also be used: Oatmeal, almond meal, rice flour, sandalwood powder, fenugreek powder, turmeric, grounded spices (cinnamon, clove, star anise, though not recommended to sensitive or reactive skins). Mixing bases may include purified water, steam distilled rose or any other flower water, full cream milk, cream, yogurt, honey, lemon juice, aloe vera juice, witch hazel, vinegar.

Ultimately it filters down to what your skin needs, how much are you willing to spend, where your brand loyalties lie, your preferences with traditional ubtan or westernized  version or a happy medium between western and eastern etc. Personally I’ve tried homemade Grandma’s ubtan recipes to modern Ayurvedic shops like Forest Essentials and Kama Ayurveda. My personal preference lies with more traditional format minus Vitamin C, Sodium Bicarb, Sea Salt.

HHW.com

xx