Oils Beyond Cleansing

By the virtue of oils, their versatility goes beyond just cleansing. Despite them being marketed and sold as oil cleansers, we need to pause and review the ingredient to assess their use and applicability. These extra special treats can also be used for a nice deep facial massage with second cleanse, mix a few drops with clay or mud masks to avoid skin from drying, mix a couple of drops in your moisturizer for an oomph factor. Also finish off the routine and seal the skin with an oil. For those odd days when we have a spot or two or three, heal it with kindness aka oil.

As for the cleansing oils we have lined up here, I’ve used them as treatments for skin. The price range is uber expensive to inexpensive. Catering to all price points, inci lists, geographic regional availabilities and of course skin types. I wanted to round up some ‘cleansing oils’ and share some accidental discoveries and ways I’ve been using them. The common theme across all these oils are they’re all non emulsifying blend of carrier and essential oils and sold as cleansing oils. However, depending on composition and formulation, I see them more as treatment oils, and super travel friendly (subject to packaging) as ‘one oil does it all‘.

First up in this category is the MV Organics 9 Oil Cleansing Tonic. With an addictive aroma, claimed to be an instant pick up for tired, dehydrated and sun damaged skins. Packed with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant rich plant and essential oils. I’ve used this oil in every way possible and cannot fault it. Been through two bottles myself and it lasts a while. Personally I like to massage it into the skin and leave it. Wiping it off with warm wash cloth, feels like I wiped off all the goodness off my face. This oil would be particularly good for inherently dry and surface dry skins to press it in the skin. The simplicity of the ingredient list really enforces the message of keeping it basic and fuss free while being effective.

Ingredient List: Camellia (Camellia Oleifera) Oil *, Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil *, Infused Centella (Centella Asiatica Extract) Oil, Vitamin E – non GM (Tocopherol), Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Extract * With essential Oils of: Bitter Orange, Lavender, Geranium, Sandalwood, Rosewood and Carrot Seed (*Organically Grown)

Next up is Alyssum Alchemy’s Divine Oil which I consider to be the Rolls Royce of oil in this category. It is an extra special treat in terms of ingredients and formulation. The first ingredient is handcrafted solar infusion of Calendula which is incredibly calming to irritated skin. It also features a base of precious oils of hemp, camellia, jojoba, pumpkin, rosehip and argan and handcrafted herbal solar infusion of vanilla. This blend of oils are rich in lineolic acid (great for oily congestion prone skins) which help to balance the acid mantle of oily, congestion prone problem skins.

What’s more interesting in this bottle of goodness is the infusion with Australian Rose Quartz (from the Harts Ranges in the Northern Territory) on a Full Moon and blessed with Reiki. Also enhanced with carefully selected gem and flower and essences: red rose, Chicago peace rose, briar rose, crabapple, pink flannel flower, white rhododendron, crystal rose quartz, clear quartz, rhodochrosite, gold. 

Honestly, I don’t have a complete appreciation of the intangible energies bottled here but what I can appreciate here, is the oil on my skin and how it feels and performs. I prefer using this oil to finish off my routine and add to clay or mud masks. It properly nourishes the skin without the heavy icky feeling on skin.

Ingredient List: Calendula Officianalis (Calendula) infused Helianthus annus (Sunflower)*oil,  Camellia Sinesis (Camellia) seed oil*,  Argania Spinosa (Argan) oil*, Vanilla Planifolia (Vanilla) Bean* Infused in Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil*, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Oil*, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) seed*, Cucurbita Pepo Styriaca (Pumpkin) seed*, Tocopherol (vitamin E)**, Essential oils of Lavendula Angustofolia (Lavender)*, Cananga odorata (Ylang Ylang)*, pelargonium graveolens (geranium)*, Santalum Spicatum (Australian Sandalwood)*, Citrus Bergamia (Bergamot) Peel oil (Bergapten-Free), Citrus limonum (lemon)*, Gem and Flower essences.

Discovered the next gem through the Boxwalla box, H is for Love Rapha Harmonizing Cleanser. Naming it as a cleanser, I feel is undercutting its performance abilities. It claims the foundation infuses nutrient-rich oils with herbs complimented by antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and highly soothing essential oils. Rapha contains a CO2 extraction of German Chamomile which is known for its high levels of matricin. Highly anti-inflammatory, matricin is a powerful agent of healing. While I thoroughly enjoy using this is as my second cleanse or morning cleanse, I adore its performance in a basic clay mask. Killing spots with kindness is right up this oil’s alley. Also, the earthy scent is something to ravel in, it smells very different to Alyssum Alchemy’s Divine Dew or MV Organics. The scent is not pretty or delightful, it’s earthy and grounding. Ingredients like Calendula, German and Roman Chamomile, Turmeric and Frankincense….these are powerhouse calming and anti inflammatory agents.

Ingredient List: Olive Oil*, Hemp Seed Oil*, Pumpkin Seed Oil*, Castor Bean Oil*, Mixed Tocopherols (Non-GMO Vitamin E), Chamomile*, Calendula*, Essential Oils Of: Roman Chamomile*, Lemon*, German Chamomile CO2*, Frankincense*, Rosemary Antioxidant CO2*, Turmeric CO2*, Lavender* (*Certified organic).

With Aveda’s Tulasara Radiant Oleation Oil, I discovered dry brushing for face. Facial dry brushing helps to promote microcirculation, nourish and restore skin’s radiance. The brush itself is very gentle on skin and with appropriate pressure control, it can be even gentler. Typically I dry brush my skin in the morning, to get the blood circulation moving after a night’s rest and inactivity. The ritual of dry brushing and oleation oil is inspired from an ayurvedic technique called Garshana (with dry brush) and Abhyanga (with warm oil). This technique basically involves massaging the body with warm oil and they say the effects of Abhyanga are similar to the feeling of being saturated with love. Anyway I completely digress with all about Ayurveda….back to the oil.

The blend consists of apricot kernel, sunflower, jojoba, rosehip, sweet almond and ayurveda’s most widely used oil, the sesame oil. The oil itself is very light and allows for nice massage or use in a mask, I wouldn’t want to finish my routine with this oil. But surprisingly does a decent job at removing makeup too (not the heavy makeup and waterproof mascaras).

Ingredient List: Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil , Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride , Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil , Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil , Coco-Caprylate/Caprate , Cetearyl Isononanoate , Rosa Canina (Rose) Fruit Oil , Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil , Isostearyl Alcohol , Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil , Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil , Jasminum Grandiflorum (Jasmine) Flower Extract , Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil , Cholesterol , Tocopherol , Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract , Fragrance (Parfum) , Farnesol , Linalool , Benzyl Salicylate , Citronellol , Citral , Benzyl Benzoate , Geraniol

The Superfacialist Una Brennan Rose Miracle Makeover Facial Oil is such an excellent product, I just wish it was easily available outside UK. Can be used as pre cleanse, massage and masking session, or to finish off the routine and seal the skin. Easily absorbed, smells divine (as the name would suggest with Rose) and all round a happy and satisfying experience with this oil. On my second bottle now, and there is nothing I could fault with this oil, packaging or performance. Anddd at a decent price point. What more could you ask for?!

Ingredient List: Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil, Persea gratissima (Avocado) oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) seed oil, Cucumis sativus (Cucumber) seed oil, Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) oil, Lavandula hybrida (Lavandin) oil, Eugenia caryophyllus (Clove) leaf oil, Pogostemon cablin (Patchouli) oil, Mentha arvensis (Peppermint) herb oil, Rosa damascena (Rose) flower oil, Acacia dealbata (Mimosa) oil, Viola odorata (Violet) leaf oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Calendula officinalis (Marigold) flower oil, Laminaria ochroleuca extract, Beta-carotene, Daucus carota sativa (Carrot) root extract, Daucus carota sativa (Carrot) seed oil, Ascorbyl palmitate, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool.

A relatively new oil by French Girl Organics Rose Oil formulated with sunflower, jojoba, olive, castor, argan oils. Smells utterly beautiful with notes of rose geranium and sweet orange. The beauty of this oil lies in its simplicity. I don’t stop at my face with oil, extends to my scalp and body too. With all the goodness of oils I like pressing it in my skin instead of moving and wiping it off.

Ingredient List: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil* Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil* Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil* Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil* Argania Spinosa (Argan) Oil* Rosa Mosqueta (Rosehip) Oil* Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Oil* Calophyllum Inophyllum (Tamanu) Oil* Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Oil, Essential Oils of Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium) Oil* Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange)*

And lastly we have Monastery Made Sage Oil, also relatively new to me but one that has moved up the ranks rather quickly. Herbaceous, crisp and sharp is one way to describe the scent but light in texture. Moves nicely, massages beautifully and works really well in masks for its addition of Blue Yarrow known for its anti-inflammatory properties.

Ingredient List: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed (Grapeseed) Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil,  Salvia Officinalis (Sage Dalmatia) Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Oil, Achillea Millefolium (Blue Yarrow) Oil, Juniperus Communis (Juniper Berry) Oil, Chamaecyparis Obtusa (Hinoki Japanese Cypress) Oil, Pinus Sylvestris (Forest Pine Scots) Oil, Lavendula Angustifolia (Lavender) Absolute

Ultimately the point is we don’t need several oils, we need one well formulated, ethically sourced quality ingredients product. Sadly the marketing pushes us to get oils for different purposes, but no one is pausing to review the ingredient lists properly to understand it applicability to different uses and skin conditions.

HHW.com

xx

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Taming my Mane

Before I dive into any elaborate procedures or talk about products quick note on my ‘Hair Facts‘.

Length wise: Longish (below shoulder). Colour: Brunette, dark coffee brown. Texture: Fine Hair, Pin Straight and lots of it. Torture Levels: Never coloured, Blow dry on special occasions (don’t bother because no curl or wave stays put, for more than 2-3 hours) and use minimal styling goop. Styling: Almost Always in a BUN. Or Just down running wild and free. Issues: Volume, Volume, Volume, ermmm did I mention Volume? My hair tends to look flat if I don’t have any volumising or sea salt spray or some form of texturizer. And lastly, very easily prone to knots.

Heads Up (pun intended) there will be references to ‘someone sitting on top of my head’. Kindly do not translate that literally, it means my hair looks Flat like glued to my scull.

Hair Oils have been a relatively new thing for the Western world. However I’ve been using hair oils since I was little girl. At the time I hated the glooopy greasyy feel but today I’m so thankful my mother decided to traumatize me like that. It was truly worth it. This ritual is conducted 2ish times a week, and always left overnight.

I have a rather wide range of hair oils to choose from, brands are limited, however class of hair oils vary. Castor Oil (on ends encourages growth, including eyebrow and lashes), Almond Oil (grew up with that on my head). Other regular suspects include Forest Essentials Sugandha (Vetiver, Hibiscus, virgin coconut and other botanicals), Bhringraj (Black Sesame and virgin Coconut Oil along with Goat’s Milk and Herbal Extracts), Brahmi (discontinued – basil leaves, licorice, cumin, virgin coconut oil) and Aveda Men Pure Formance Composition and Hello Hair. If you’d like reviews specifically on any of these, please leave comments below.

Shampoo Ohhhh I have commitment issues with Shampoo’s. It’s almost like my mop of hair is a complete whore and needs a change of shampoo all the time. My hair cannot get use to one shampoo, should I use something consistently it looks like someone’s planted their back side on my head.

The Mo Faves include: Kama Ayurveda Rose & Jasmine (SLS free and smells bloody amazing) my reigning fav of the moment. Followed by Ducray and Klorane. Frequency to shampoo is usually every 3rd day. Extended to the 4th day, with varying laziness levels.

Conditioner & Mask I DON’T use Conditioners! Yes you read that correctly, no conditioner because it makes my hair look flat like someone is sitting on top of it. However I use Hair Mask on my ends. This step needs to be Silicone free for me.

Any fine hair person would know, silicone and fine hair is BAD combo. So this mask Christophe Robin Regenerating Mask with Pricky Pear Oil is god sent for us flat fine hair peeps. Retains hydration in locks, keeps the movement and doesn’t make it heavy

After Shampoo Ritual Towel dried for good 15 mins, I hydrate and nourish hair. My All time Faves include Phyto 7 for summer or Phyto 9 for winter (ahh the non sticky, silky smooth glossy hair) or Kevin Murphy Body Guard Hydrating Lotion for Hair (now discontinued so I seriously ration my use). Also trialing Forest Essentials Hair Vitalizer Bhringraj for hair loss (don’t think it has helped my hair at all but my hair smells lovely).

Finally to address va va voom volume issues, some sea salt spray or Colab Dry Shampoo Extreme Volume for texturizing and addressing that non existent ‘being’ sitting on the top. Of course on day 2-3 I use dry shampoo to get rid of any oiliness. In addition, to also using Klorane Dry Shampoo which I find works fine if I intend on twisting my hair in a voluminous bun, but if I want to let it down….not a good option. I’ve tried many sea salt sprays but I’ve only ever ‘used them up’ to welcome them in my Mission Empties basket, never repurchased them which speaks volumes (pun intended again!). My all time fav hair spray is Aveda Air Control (LOVE the smell), and controls all fly aways.

If you have any recommendations on products I should try based on my hair type and issues, please leave comment below.

HHW.com

xx