Cleansing & Exfoliating Powders

We see it everywhere now, cleansing / exfoliating powders. An ancient concept and like many other Asian girls something we took for granted as a part of our childhood. I distinctly remember when I was little, my Mum made a paste and gave me a bath with that paste. Yes all over the body. Many of you will instantly think of garbanzo bean powder, or powdered green mung beans, turmeric and milk or yogurt….yes that’s exactly the ubtan I’m referring to. That exact concoction is also applied to a Indian brides before the wedding. It’s said the ubtan aids exfoliation and imparts glowing flawless skin.

So you ask, well explain what is an Ubtan? As per ancient Ayurvedic principles and texts, it is roots, flowers, mud, clays grounded and mixed in a powder form. The benefits are endless – Natural ground powders of clay, mud, roots, flowers, spices, salts, lentils, dried fruit skin’s which can be mixed with rose water, milk, honey, yogurt whatever your skin and heart desires. Aids exfoliation, helps with glow, wonderful cleanser, incredibly cost effective however there are plenty of options to splurge on. Multi purpose as it can be cleanser or mask or an exfoliator.

Finally, the western world of skincare has caught on, well more specifically ‘western natural skincare world or green beauty world’, call it what you may! I’ve noticed three distinct categories of this, western skincare entirely, western brands inspired by Ayurvedic principles and then of course eastern brands that are entirely based on Ayurvedic principles and elaborate methods of preparation.

From May Lindstrom to Leah Lani, they’ve all formulated a version of their very own and sold as cleansing powder or exfoliating powder. The ingredients are varied between brands but after a while you tend to see a consistent trend (albeit with slightly different proportion and formulation).

Westernized Versions (bold ingredients are common)

May Lindstrom – The Clean Dirt ($60 for 200ml)
white halloysite clay, red morrocan rhassoul clay, sea salt, vitamin c, sodium bicarb, marshmallow root, spices like cinnamon, clove, turmeric, ginger, vanilla and cacao

Leah Lani – Kalima Cleansing powder  ($46 for 100ml)
coconut milk, brown rice, clay powders, guava fruit, banana, camu camu, rosehip, honeysuckle, sea salt, hibiscus, vanilla, rose, vitamin c

de Mamiel Brightening Cleanse & Exfoliate ($60 for 70g)

rhassoul clay, rose clay, sodium bicarbonate, white clay, oat flour, vitamin c, cocoa, rose, himalayan cedar wood, sandalwood, frankincense, vanilla, elderflower, marshmallow, grape, cucumber, calendula, german chamomile, gotu kola, ginseng, chrysanthemum and horsetail

Farmacy New Day Exfoliating Grains ($30 for 100g)

sodium cocoyl isethionate, corn starch, sodium bicarbonate, cranberry, water, adzuki seed, vitamin c, camellia, carrot, echinacea, glycerin, lemon willow bark, spiraling powder

One Love Brand New Day ($39 for 48g)

zea mays (corn) starch, pisum sativum (pea) flour, sodium cocoyl glutamate, kaolin, ananas comosus (pineapple) fruit extract, fragrance/parfum

The common ingredients that overlap between some of these products are Sodium Bicarbonate (resulting in fizzy emulsion making it more appealing & fun), Sea Salt, Vitamin C, Marshmallow Root, and Clay Powders. The first three ingredients mentioned is what clearly sets the Western Cleansing Powders apart from traditional Ayurvedic ubtans which are far more gentler on skin and dare I say far more “green” for skin! In my experience and opinion, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sea Salt and Vitamin C (assuming its pure Ascorbic Acid powder) can be very harsh on sensitive and sensitized skins.

Coming to my second category, which is western skincare brand based on Ayurvedic principles and ingredients. This brings me to Mauli Rituals Radiance Exfoliant and Mask (£36.00 for 30gms or 1oz).

The inch list truly excites me, with inclusion of Fullers Earth Clay (that unmissable sweet scent),  Rose petal powder,  Sandalwood powder, Turmeric powder, Vetiver powder, Kashmiri Saffron, Asparagus, Sandalwood Oil, Rosehip,  Rose Absolute, Kashmiri Saffron Extract.

Works wonderfully as cleanser, exfoliant or mask. Versatile in use and mixing base. The luxurious  ingredient listing is much closer to authentic Ayurvedic ingredients with a clear exclusion of Sodium Bicarb, Sea Salt or any other skin stripping harsher elements.

Closer to Ayurvedic Texts, Principles, and Ingredients

Forest Essentials ($18-$20 for 60g)
Tejasvi Milk – neem, cinnamon, fennel powder, sweet almond meal, sandalwood oil, fenugreek powder, peepal extract, anantmool powder, apricot kernel, saffron, durva extract and milk
Soundarya – orange peel, rose, jasmine, neem, oatmeal, sandalwood, turmeric, fennel, anantmool, saffron flower, lemon peel and star anise.
Multani Mitti  (my personal FAVE) – fullers clay, neem, turmeric, fenugreek seed powder, lodhra bark, woodfordia powder and banyan bark powder
Narangi (Orange) & Nagkesar (Messua ferrea) – orange peel, marigold flower, licorice root, messua ferrea, bala root, vetiver, ashwagandha, durva, neem, brahmi leaf, anantmool and cinnnamon
Roop Nikhar & Gulab (Rose) – lentil seed, rose, ornage peel, oatmeal, anantmool root, neem, katsuya powder,turmeric, saffron, cinnamon

Kama Ayurveda ($22 for 40g)

Mridul (face & body) – oatmeal, green gram, almond, neem, sandalwood, turmeric, rose and fennel.

PurEarth ($60 for 100g)
Turmeric Exfoliating Face Sand – Bitter apricot kernels, fullers earth clay, persian walnut, neem, turmeric, pomegranate, lavender, rose, seabuckthorn berry, and saffron

The web is also inundated with several DIY recipes, of which garbanzo bean powder,  mung bean powder, turmeric and milk or ghee is by far the most popular. However based on your skin’s needs, concerns and what’s available in your kitchen, these ingredients can also be used: Oatmeal, almond meal, rice flour, sandalwood powder, fenugreek powder, turmeric, grounded spices (cinnamon, clove, star anise, though not recommended to sensitive or reactive skins). Mixing bases may include purified water, steam distilled rose or any other flower water, full cream milk, cream, yogurt, honey, lemon juice, aloe vera juice, witch hazel, vinegar.

Ultimately it filters down to what your skin needs, how much are you willing to spend, where your brand loyalties lie, your preferences with traditional ubtan or westernized  version or a happy medium between western and eastern etc. Personally I’ve tried homemade Grandma’s ubtan recipes to modern Ayurvedic shops like Forest Essentials and Kama Ayurveda. My personal preference lies with more traditional format minus Vitamin C, Sodium Bicarb, Sea Salt.

HHW.com

xx

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Luxury Oils & Balms

My love, admiration and respect for oils and lush balms is known to every shred of living organism on planet earth. Generally the variety and choices of these lush treatments vary between high, mid and low end. Below are my chosen indulgences and absolute treats for my skin. The price points are insane, however the one off feeling they provide is irreplaceable with instant gratification.

May Lindstrom The Blue Cocoon would come as no surprise to absolutely any skincare lover. Before trying this product, I heard umpteen number of rave reviews but always held slight skpeticism. Eventually I folded and indulged and much to my surprise (and secret high expctations) all claims, rave reviews, gushes, & hypes stood true.

The balm is a treat for the skin. It smell insanely divine and melts away all the stresses. It helps calm my skin down from any inflammation, irritation, redness, or dryness ($160 50ml – $3.2 per ml).

Mahalo The Rare Indigo Balm is my joy ride. As soon as I open the jar I find myself sniffing the pot like K9 unit at the airport. I take forver doing my routine with this bad boy, because I spend more time sticking my snout in the pot than actual application on skin. Very easily carried away, but a little goes a long way. The texture and consistency of this balm is what make it sooooo unique and delectable ($110 30ml – $3.67 per ml).

Darphin 8 Flower Nectar is a walk in a garden. Slightly different texture to regular oils but good heavens this oil is Flowery Dreaminess… Glorified! Darphin also have individual flower facial elixirs like Chamomile, Rose, Jasmine, Niaouli, Tangerine, and Orange Blossom. Now imagine a congregation of all these lovely florals coming together for an orgasmic union. I reserve this oil for when I truly need a pick me up, when I feel world is crashing down on me (yes hormones I’m referring to you) or when my skin has behaved so darn well it deserves an incredibly euphoric treat ($150 15ml – $10 per ml).

Kama Ayurveda Kumkumadi Oil was a complete surprise in a 12ml bottle. Picked up with zero expectations and it surpassed everything else. Ingredient wise, possibly the most unique on this list (refer to my review, you’ll know what I mean) and has a certain richness about it. This brand came at my forefront because of this oil and I can unbashedly admit it was “the discovery” of 2015 for me (INR 1,890 Rs157.50 per ml, USD $53 12ml – $4.4 per ml).

MV Organic Skincare Rose Plus Booster Oil is an oldie but always a Goodie!! I’m an old lady at heart and soul and I’m obsessed with anything Rose. But we know rose scents are so awfully plagarised in the market and we’ve all come across hideous, synthetic, nauseating, vile versions of rose. All that….until you come across this unsuspecting bottle of rose heaven. Blended with Camellia, Jojoba, Rosehip, Rose Damascena Oil, Geranium, Rosemary, basically a pinnacle of perfection. Top marks for its versatility in use with a cleanser, mask, oils and creams. Skin is calm, stable and “sensible” the following morning (USD$120 $3.42 per ml, AUD$99 $2.8 per ml, GBP £72.00 35ml -£2.05 per ml).

Hope you’ve enjoyed this read, tell me what are fave oil indulgences? I would love to expand this palette.

HHW.com

xx

Kama Ayurveda Himalayan Deodar Cleanser

Himalayan Deodar Face Cleanser (For Men)

Claims: A perfect hydrating face wash for men with Cedar Wood which is known for its calming and purifying qualities. Filled with pure natural ingredients it leaves the skin feeling fresh, clean & supple and preps the skin for a comfortable shave. Aloe Vera leaf juice heals and smoothens skin and Jojoba seed minimizes fine lines, promoting skin suppleness and rejuvenation, Vetiver root and Black Cumin seeds which are anti-bacterial, Lavender oil, an effective toner and Patchouli oil an anti-inflammatory which tones and tightens skin.

This was hijacked by the Man of the House almost immediately he had a whiff of its fragrance. He prefers to keep this cleanser in the shower, as much as I detest this idea (compromise the key to marriage, I’m told <rolls her eyes>).

Yes I get it, you may say the packaging specifically calls out “For Men”, well I don’t care. I think it is just as fabulous for women. Not one ingredient from the listing stands out negatively. Fabulous addition of Vetiver, Jojoba, Salicylic acid, Cedar Wood, Lavender, Patchouli, Holy Basil, Licorice, Cumin, Cassia…..imagine how woody and fabulous it smells, which is probably why its classified as “For Men”.  My disagreement aside on the classification, me likey and the Man approves.

In terms of texture and consistency, it’s quite watery but foams (attributed to the addition of Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate in the inci list) slightly when mixed with water. Personally not the biggest fan of foaming, but this is fairly mild making it quite tolerable for me.

Obviously not a makeup remover, wonderful as a second or morning cleanse. With the thoughtful addition of Salicylic Acid, it is particularly great for breakouts or ingrown (which is also explains the bearded sexist categorization;)).

Post rinse, the skin doesn’t feel stripped, stretched or tight. Needless to mention but we follow with toner and moisturizer or facial oil (depends if morning or evening).

Kama prides on its authentic ayurvedic formulation and claims No artificial colours, No artificial fragrance, No animal ingredients, No petrochemicals, parabens, urea, propylene glycol or sulphates are added.

HHW.com

xx

 

Repurchases & Back Ups

As a part of blogging and micro blogging, I’m fortunate to try new products, however there are some products I’ve continually repurchased and restored the “stash” for an apocalypse. This post may come as no surprise to regulars as they would have seen the products time and again.

The post intends to round up most of the repurchases, backups, trusted products in compromised dire situations (dramatic much!).

THE JOY OF MY LIFE: CLEANSERS

Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm – Simple, effective and now synonymous with Must-Have. Gorgeous smelling buttery balm, that melts in an oil and dissolves all war paint. Take it off with steaming cloth and you’re officially at gateway Heaven.

The Body Shop Nutriganics Softening Cleansing Gel – annoyingly discontinued by The Body Shop, so I’ve stocked well considering TBS website is clearing at $7.25! Just as fabulous as Emma Hardie balm at a fraction of a price.

Darphin Aromatic Cleansing Balm – perfect second cleanse or morning cleanse or aromatherapy-esque massage. Slightly waxier in texture but on contact with skin its Lush.

Rodial Glamtox Cleansing Balm – my beloved travel companion. Only brand (until Sarah Chapman) who did cleansing balm in a pump bottle and ticks all the  requisites of good cleansing balm. Detailed review on Rodial balms….click here.

MY REASON TO LIVE – ACIDS

Alpha H Liquid Gold – my first ever Acid product, loaded with Glycolic acid, operates at pH level of 2.5 and super effective.

Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Peel Pads – claims to be at 20% but operates at higher pH of 5, very gentle on skin and all round worker (not limited to exfoliation) for days when skin needs a pick me up.

Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel – Two words. Travel BFF. I’m willing to leave the Man at home on a holiday, but not these acid pads. Conveniently packaged with a punch of acids and genuinely gives you holiday glow!.

Bravura London Lactic Acid 10% & Salicylic Acid 2% Peel – peel, serum, spot treatment, acid tone, or part of Triple Mask routine (explained here). This is as Versatile as you’d like it to be. Solid, basic, effective acid – must have in an acid arsenal.

My detailed review on these peels….click here.

ESSENCE OF LIFE – TONERS

La Roche Posay Serozinc – so simple yet so effective. My review on Serozinc can be found here.

Kama Ayurveda Toning Mists (Rose and Mogra) – I wish I had come across this brand sooner.

The steam distilled face toning mists, not only smell divine but also soothe irritated skin. Always keep least one as a back up and one specifically for travel.

SOUL SEARCHERS – SERUMS

Sunday Riley Good Genes – Unneutralized Lactic Acid at 40% that gives major light bulb glow the following morning. The key with this product is Use Wisely, not abuse it. This will always remain in my stash when I need glow before an event or need to slap my skin to some form of radiance.

Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic+Retinol Brightening Solution – may it be ‘breakout’ville, or post breakout ‘scar’ville, this serum is plain fabulous for addressing scaring, uneven skintone, irritated or inflamed skin. Also used as a spot treatment on that bastard that left a scar.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair – all round, good skin in a bottle. Hydrates, plumps, calms, soothes…..literally Good Skin in a Bottle.

Indeed Labs Hydraluron – essential dose of hydration, my skin just binges on this stuff. Instantly see the difference in skin.

A guide to All Serums….Click Here.

FACIAL OILS THAT GIVE ME BLISSFUL FEELS

The Body Shop Vitamin E Overnight Serum in Oil – Must Have. Calms my angry spotty skin, hydrates, fakes my sleeping pattern. Light texture, immediately absorbs. My detailed review here.

Aesop Fabulous Face Oil – Smells amazing, absorbs instantly, excellent for combo skin. My detailed review here.

Goodness Chia Seed Oil – Cold Pressed Chia Seed Oil (excellent source of fatty acids and omegas), fabulous on its own or mixed with any other oil, mask or cleanser (read, majorly versatile here). Does a fab job with just 2 ingredients : Chia Seed & Meadowfoam Oil.

Kama Ayurveda Kumkumadi Facial Elixir – Decadent oil with incredible ingredients where I only need  a drop or two, can be mixed with Chia Seed Oil and massage in the skin to glory. My detailed review here.

For a snapshot on ALL facial oils used….Click Here.

CANNOT FUNCTION WITHOUT A LIP BALM

Nuxe-Rêve de Miel – this should come as no surprise, I’m almost married to this balm.

Lucas Papaw Ointment – this is my childhood in a tub and tube and it aint going anywhere at all.

Follow my Lip Balm Trail …..Click Here.

DISASTER RECOVERY PRODUCTS – BREAKOUT HELPERS

Effaclar Duo, K and AI – with the slightest indication that my skin is going to rise in a battle, I will bring the ‘A’ team out to settle matters.

Duo on spots – always with me (travel, purse, home, side table….every where).

K is for overall calmness and Salicylic acid helps sort the situation.

AI is again for spots specifically when I know that bastard will leave me a scar.

LUSH TREATS – MASK

Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask – honey is such a fabulous ingredient, although I feel its very underrated for what it offers. This mask is such a stellar product, calms, purifies, hydrates, plumps….this time I will call it Good Skin in a Tube.

Aesop Parsley Seed Cleansing Mask – in my opinion, the stand out product of Aesop. Used as spot treatment or an overall cleanse, fabulous. The only clay mask where I don’t need a chisel to break through.

I’d love to know what are your backups and repurchased products? What do you rely on in a major situation or an emergency? Who are your fall backs and trusted souls?

HHW.com

xx

 

 

 

De’Mist’fying Rose Waters

Rose Water and Toners have been incredibly popular for its ability to hydrate, refresh, soothe, calm, and balance all skin types. Also known for its versatile uses as, toner, refresher, eye brightening, after shave spritz, pillow mist, mood enhancer etc.

In this post, I intend on shedding some light on Rose Waters in terms of types of roses, ingredient lists, some of my personal trials and experiences with some Rose Waters and some pointers you can look out for when deciding on a Rose Water for yourself.

 

Most common types of roses you’d expect to see in preparation of Rose Waters is Rosa Centifolia and Damascena Rose. Centifolia roses primarily grow in France and North Africa, have various sub types of roses, such as ‘Cabbage’ (left pic) or ‘Provence’ roses. Known to have first appeared in the late sixteenth century as a hybrid. They tend to have large globular blooms of white or pink, are fragrant and extremely hardy.

Rose Damascena commonly known as Damask Rose (right pic) with two distinct types i.e. Summer Damasks and Autumn Damasks. In addition, to these being used widely in perfumery, they are also known to be edible (Turkish Delight). The roses in this category are are a light to moderate pink to light red colour.

A Note on Preservatives Used: Consistently seen, Potassium sorbate is water soluble preservative and Sodium Benzoate – water soluble sodium salt of benzoic acid, usually used as preservative.

My Trials, Experiences and Opinions (in order of my personal preference)

Kama Ayurveda Rose Water

Steam Distilled Rose Water

This is as pure and natural as it gets. As mentioned in my Oil Extraction Post (Water & Steam Distillation Process), Floral waters are by-product of oil extraction process. This is purest form of Rose Water you could possibly lay your hands on, where the original flower properties have remained intact. The mist is wonderful and thoroughly refreshing. In terms of rose scent, it has subtle rose fragrance, think of roses in rain scent.

MV Organics (AUD$40 – 70ml)

Water, Rose (Rose Centifolia) Oil, Polysorbate 40, Potassium Sorbate

With the least amount of ingredients, the simplest formulation and the most effective of the lot. One very important note too, the mist (mechanical pump) is damn fine! Crucial IMO. Fragrance wise, it seems to have the most subtle and “natural” rose fragrance. Fresh, Light and Nothing overpowering to make you nauseous.

Melvita Rose Mist ($15 – 50ml)

Rosa Damascena Flower Water*, Aqua/Water, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract*, Glycerin, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinic, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citronellol**, Geraniol**

*Ingredients from Organic Farming – ** Natural Components of Floral Water

Second Fav, with good ingredient (Damascena, Rosehip) with boost of Glycerin for sure shot way of sealing in hydration. Other less familiar ingredient is Levulinic acid which is plant derived acid used as preservative for its anti microbial properties. Whilst Sodium Levulinic is a salt of Levulinic Acid. The aerosol based rose water, is incredibly fine and wonderful to travel with. Fragrance wise this one smells slightly more like a mature rose, not light or fresh like MV Organic. In a few seconds, it has slightly sour note (in the best way possible) may be due to my own skin composition. Having said that, it still a very nice scent.

Santa Maria Novella Rose Water ($35 – 250ml, 8.4 fl oz)

Aqua (Water-Eau), Parfum (Rosa Centifolia)-Fragrance (Cabbage Rose (Rosa Centifolia)), Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Geraniol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Benzyl Benzoate (Made in Italy)

Oh dear, this is where I walk on thin line. Santa Maria Novella I love as brand, for its culture, heritage and history (and packaging, who am I Kidding!). This rose water is nice and I have repurchased too but when I glance at the inci list, I have slight cringe factor because it has Rosa Centifolia Parfum not Oil (Bloody Hell!). Latter ingredients are preservatives. Housed in solid glass bottle (not with a spritz, my ingenious addition). Upon spritzing you can immediately tell its not Rose Oil its Rose perfume, almost like slight synthetic rose note. Still very appealing even in its delicious synthetic form. Obviously not travel friendly.

Andalou Naturals 1000 Roses Floral Toner (USA only – $12.95 – 178ml, 6 fl oz)

Aloe Barbadensis Juice*, Rosa Damascena (Rose) Distillate*, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Lauric Acid, Fruit Stem Cells (Alpine Rose, Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex*, Soothing Complex: [Hyaluronic Acid, Magnolia Officinalis Bark, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Leaf Cell and Boswellia Serrata (Boswellin) Extracts], Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Extract*, Hibiscus Sabdariffa and Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Extracts*^, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) and Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium) Oils*, Rosa Centifolia (Rose) Oil

Non-GMO verified   *Organic   ^Fair Trade

This is where the plot thickens, this is technically a ‘Toner’ not ‘Water’. Inci list wise its great, price wise is mass appealing, housed in plastic bright fuscia pink bottle with decent mist. You cannot ask for anything more at this price point. Win.

L’occitane Rose 4 Reines Hydrating Face Mist (Discontinued)
Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Alcohol, Sodium PCA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium chloride, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl salicylate, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Linalool, Eugenol

Disappointment is left for last, look at the inci list, where is the Rose?! It’s a NO from me (thankfully its discontinued). But I loved the bottle packaging and misting mechanism. Bloody, frigging, hell breaking, Excellent. Obvs retained bottle, to decant others and use (no brainer move).

So to condense it all, pointers for you to keep in mind:

• Proper, Authentic Rose Water is steam distilled or a by-product of extraction process for Rose oil.
• Check if its Rose Parfum or Oil?! Needless to mention, but Oil is the preferred option here.
• Determine type of Rose used, Rosa Centifolia or Damascena.
• No matter which rose is used, it should be a colourless fluid, any colour to the liquid indicates artificial colour added.
• There will almost always be a preservative but it should be towards the end of the listing.
• Commonly used preservatives include Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 40, Benzyl Benzoate.

Now, after learning tad more about formulations, if you’ve lost all faith in Rose Waters, I highly recommend looking into Caudalie Grape Water which consists of Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Nitrogen (USDA Certified Made in France).

Simple, inexpensive, effective and widely available. It lasts a while with a generous quantity packed.

Hope you’ve found this post useful and continue on your quest to find “The Rose Water”.

HHW.com

xx