In my last post on Acids 101 I decoded all Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids however this post I will talk about Enzymes. They are different to Alpha Hydroxy Acids in the way they operate. AHA’s dissolve lipids (oils) that hold cells together, penetrate in skin and loosen the clingy skin cells. However, enzymes dissolve the dead skin cells on the surface of skin. Enzymes are not pH dependent; therefore limited exfoliation can be achieved.
Skin Concerns: used to treat pigmentation, acne, fine lines, sun spots. The only catch to these products are the enzymatic activity (active period) lasts 4-6 months.
Textures & Consistency: comes in all forms, cleanser, exfoliants, peels or masks. Generally you can smell the original primary ingredient.
The Experience: stinging, tingling are common however you have to be guided by your skin’s tolerance.
Operation Mode: Enzymes are wonderful surface exfoliants without any manual scrubbing tugging or pulling action. They’re are gentler on the skin compared to AHA’s however some aggressive enzymes such as Papain may not be the best option for sensitive skins.
The table below shows the main types of enzymes used in products aiding in removal of dead skin cells with some product suggestions:
|Source||Enzyme Name||Products Suggestions|
|Papaya||Papain||Cleanser: Jan Marini Clean Zyme
Exfoliator: Tatcha Rice Enzyme Powder, Kate Somerville ExfoliKate
Mask: Astara Green Papaya Nutrient Mask, Peter Thomas Roth Pumpkin Mask, Mario Badescu Enzyme Revitalising Mask, Elemis Papaya Enzyme Mask, Jurlique Fruit Enzyme Exfoliator, Jan Marini Skin Zyme, Herbivore Botanicals Blue Tansy Mask
Moisurizer: Sunday Riley Tidal Brightening Enzyme Water Cream
|Pineapple||Bromelian||Cleanser: My Chelle Enzyme Fruit Enzyme Cleanser, Alba Botanica Hawaiian Pineapple Enzyme Facial Cleanser
Exfoliant: Tracie Martyn Enzyme Exfoliant
Mask: Herbivore Botanicals Brighten Pineapple Enzyme + Gemstone Instant Glow Mask, Philosphy MicroDelivery Purifying Peel
|Pumpkin||Curcubita||Exfoliator, Peel: Peter Lamas Exfoliating Pumpkin Facial Scrub, Perfect Image Labs Pineapple Pumpkin Enzyme Peel (includes AHA’s),
Mask: Andalou Naturals Pumpkin Mask
|Pomegranate||Cleanser: Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser
Mask: Tata Harper Resurfacing Mask
|Blueberry||Mask: Ole Henriksen Blue/Black Berry Enzyme Mask|
Hope this was helpful and thank you for taking the time to read this post!